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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 7:24 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 10:59 pm
Posts: 1285
Location: the Cold Toast QLD
ok heres the cause of the servere leak .. some people do some seriously wrong things when they work on cars. apart from this leak there was only one bolt holding the engine on to the mount.
i fixed the slogged remote shaft bush without drama by making an insert out of shim brass forming a rolled end so it doesnt move.

whitestriped63 dropped in and we got bobs motor out ready for tomorows swap..
BIG THANKS MATE...

also found the waterpump was stuffed beyond anything ive seen b4... no impeller blades left at all.....
on inspecting some spares i noticed a big difference in impellers.. is one of these a special high volume pump.. sure looks like it would move water more readily..pump on right is the stuffed one. (in case you didnt notice LOL)

anyone got any story on the pumps ???
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Last edited by danidad on Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2005 9:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 12:36 pm
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Location: Dubbo, NSW
Check the impellor depth from the face - I think the high flow ones sit deeper into the block, there is no actual change to the shape of the impellor. Doesn't matter once over 2000 rpm anyway according to KC


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:22 pm 
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Location: the Cold Toast QLD
these obviously are different impellers. i just wondered why they are so different if it makes no difference...

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
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Location: Melbourne
:?
The rusted away pressed metal one is probably an aftermarket one and whoever had the car didn't use any anti-corrosion/glycol in the water. The top LH one also appears to be an aftermarket jobby as it is an odd shape for the large cast iron impellor. The lower one looks like it has the cast iron type small impellor.
The large impellor type will fit 1275 blocks but not all small bore blocks. They can be made to fit if necessary by grinding away the block to provide clearance for the larger impellor.
Since most replacement types of pump seem to be aluminium alloy these days anticorrosion/glycol in the water is essential to prevent the pump body from corroding. (As well as your heater tap)

Hope this helps
RonR


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:38 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
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Location: Brisbane
the top one that`s cast iron with the big impeller is the original High vol pump

Most replacement pumps these days are crap

i allways buy the large impeller type & also when buying i try to find a pump that has the closest clearance from impeller to pump body,,,you know, the concave section where the impelle nearly touches,,,close there means more of a chance of water actually moving (being pumped) at idle

easy-peasy :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:48 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I've been wondering if anyone has ever tried the electric water pumps that are available these days?
I realise that a bad radiator will still cause problems, but on a hot day, the extra water movement may help in traffic to keep the temps down with an electric fan....maybe....?

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All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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