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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 11:03 am 
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Having followed the interesting molasses & vinegar thread, and tested Evaporust, I thought it would be interesting to compare the electrolytic method. Google Search for Electrolytic Rust Removal.

I bought some washing soda, cheap as chips, dissolved about 1/2 cup in about 18 litres of water and arranged some anodes (sacrificial iron, so used some scrap tube). I suspended the other mirror from my Commer van from a piece of wood, and connected my automotive battery charger.

Two things to note at this stage: Unlike the other people who described their efforts on the web, my setup didn't immediately start making bubbles of hydrogen, and the meter on the charger didn't indicate any current.

Anyway, here's the before: (This can be directly compared to the Evaporust as it's the opposite mirror to the one in that test).

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Basic automotive charger (4 amp):
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After six hours (the solution was clear when I started):
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I ended up leaving it overnight.


Results: - Note: The charger was now indicating a reasonable current, and the bubbles were obvious. You cannot let the gas accumulate as it's dangerous from an exploding point of view. Also, the part in the photos is wet. Once dried, it's clear to see there's no rust left. The stem of the mirror is as eroded as the other, hence the off scalloped look.

The solution now had a layer of gunk on the top. I rinsed off the part.

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So it's about as effective as the Evaoprust, although it did soften and loosen the paint - potentially a good thing, potentially a bad thing. The solution is caustic, but not enough to mean you can get it on your skin for a while. You don't want to dip your hand in the solution while your charger is on, obviously, but the solution is fairly benign and can be tipped into the garden (on a par with Evaporust).

It is cheaper, in the region of 50 cents of materials and power vs about $10 for the Evaporust (consumed in the first test). The Evaporust is easier, as the rust just disappears and all you need to do is soak it. The electrolytic method is a bit more involved, as you need to hook up all the gear, rotate the part, and perhaps give it a bit of a wire brushing if the rust is as thick as this was. It's cheaper than vinegar or molasses, I would think.

Both Evaporust and this method are better than wire brushing or acid based methods, I think, although limited to the size of part you can get in a bucket.


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 12:44 pm 
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Nice work, thanks for posting the results.


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 12:59 pm 
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This looks a bit too high tech for me

Have we got any methods that involve C4?

DOZ :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 1:44 pm 
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there was a restoration video where a guy peeled of the door skin of a door and then put the door frame in a kiddie pool full of this stuff.

I like it its a great Idea. I will be doing it as soon as I can find something with rust on it.

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 2:08 pm 
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Angus
Thats rust removal - now try swapping the power leads and use the sacrificial iron to recoat the rusted metal. Its obviously not a good idea on nuts and bolts but I have read it works well on badly rusted items.

Mike


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 2:53 pm 
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The chemicals required for rust removal are supermarket items, but I'm thinking zinc plating at home must be straightforward. You'd probably need more control over the current than a battery charger affords. Time for research...


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 3:19 pm 
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Hmm
You need dc current and a battery charger should do the job okay - maybe a bigger grunt one.

Twenty years ago most garages had big chargers on wheels that had a a varialbe charge rate as high as 80 amps for a quick charge. They were basically a big heavy rectifier and a transformer - really bullet proof.

These days they are basically stuck in workshop corners unused - ask around .

We recently bought a brand new 20 amp battery charger to run of our genrator to booster solar batteries on one of our farms. It came of ebay and cost less than $100 in total.

You don't need more than 12 volts - any more than that and it will bite.

Mike


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 3:54 pm 
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Angusdog wrote:
The chemicals required for rust removal are supermarket items, but I'm thinking zinc plating at home must be straightforward. You'd probably need more control over the current than a battery charger affords. Time for research...


Easy but bit more of a fiddle - you need a variable current as you calculate current per area. and zinc salt solution and zinc for anodes. Now nickel planting is an idea but lot more expensive and needs more control There is a good book to get (to the home electro plater it's like Vizard) but I can't tell you the title as we are renovating and it's got buried in the junk :evil:

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 7:22 pm 
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See here- http://www.janekits.com.au/mainframe.php

I bought a zinc kit and a nickel one, zinc plated a few bits but still haven't tried the nickel. :oops:

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 8:09 pm 
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I'm really interested in the Nickle cobalt plating. It allows a coating very similar in finish to chrome palting from home. A friend of mine has one set up and he has given me permission to try it out..

I'm just not convinced that I want to have the chemicals around the house with a little boy about however, so will have to continue to use the commercial platers for a little while yet.

As for the rust removal, you can all form an orderly queue in front of my sand and bead blaster. You can leave 50 cents on the fridge on your way out! (I love my blaster, it completes me.. )

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 8:26 pm 
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What sort of media blaster do you have? I have a pressurised tank, which I've had some good results with but it's very inconsistent: The first minute works superbly, then it clogs or comes out in a solid stream of grit. I've tired to 'tune' the pressure, but nothing seems to work consistently.

I'd like to have the room for a blasting cabinet, but the problems with the blaster remain. Currently the grit ends up on the driveway so it's wasteful and messy, but then again, I couldn't get the whole shell into a cabinet so it's handy for parts the angle grinder can't reach.


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 8:35 pm 
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I won't clog up the thread with photos, but you'll see it in the resto thread a few pages in. I use Bengal Bay Garnet (30 bucks for 25 kilos) and glass bead (50 bucks for 25 kilos).
The trick with the blaster nozzles (when water is your enemy) is to get the one which doesn't have the internal mixing chamber. It can be had from super cheap for about 20 bucks and has been the best one I have used. The condensation forms where there is a pressure drop, and when they have the mixing chambers inside the nozzle, this is where the sand turns to mud.

Without the chamber, the vapour forms outside the nozzle and an instant later is smacked into the rusty mini bit anyway. No mud, no worries...

I have a air drier connected at the compressor, but I find that when you are running the compressor at or near capacity, there isn't enough of a pressure drop across it remove the water. Hence it is pretty well useless....

Also, every few minutes, I put my still gloved hand over the end of the nozzle and press the trigger. This purges the sand suction pipe and removes any bits of junk that might have been sucked up with the sand.

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 9:59 pm 
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a mate of mine made his own tank out of an old clarks swimming pool and stuck his 6x4 box trailer in it. Came up awesome!

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 10:57 pm 
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mini-dunger wrote:
there was a restoration video where a guy peeled of the door skin of a door and then put the door frame in a kiddie pool full of this stuff.


Linky http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9O7y9va-vrA

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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 7:58 am 
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britishvita wrote:
mini-dunger wrote:
there was a restoration video where a guy peeled of the door skin of a door and then put the door frame in a kiddie pool full of this stuff.


Linky http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9O7y9va-vrA


ahh that old chestnut..

that guys a ledgend.

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