Hi,

I need to get a tow hitch for my mini but the local towbar place reckons it will be easier if I can give him some pictures of existing similar bars so he can see the design and the mounting points.

Does anyone have pics of their tow hitch and how/where it fits to the car/subframe?

I have found some great pictures on MiniMania but would be keen to see anyone local who has had one made as well Any pics, plans, descriptions welcome. Ta!

NB These are the pics I found so far (which are very good cos they're on a newly painted car and you can see it quite clearly)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m20/ ... 1264181118
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m20/ ... 1264180911
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m20/ ... 1264180826
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m20/ ... 1264180502

the ones on our cars have a longer plate in the boot floor and onthe rear bar of the sub frame will get some photos when the rain stops

i think it might be an alright idea to have the plate bolted back side of the rear subframe (not the visible) side to take a bit more of the strain...

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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=71255

Is there a difference between a towbar for a sedan and a van if not I have one .

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That's why it's good to be.............ME

I have a sedan one here, it's for sale cheap if you want it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

please please do mate

I am about to mod a sedan one I just got, to fit my van, and would like to have some idea how it works on yours

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Yes, van ones are different because they have to go under the tank.

I'd love to see a pic of your van one, to see how it differs from my van one.

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

hey mate, is there any chance you could take a photo of your van one, to give me an idea how I'm going to modify mine. I'm doing it in the next week or so, so a pic would be of much of help

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

Walked past one at the Gosford Swap meet last Sunday. Almost paid $5 . . . but kept walking.

Did find some other goodies though!

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Hi,

THis is my van towbar.



The longer rail bolts to the rear rail of the subframe.

The shorter rail bolts through the rear valance.

The cutout is to clear one of the van tank's fixing bolts (I think).

The gooseneck was mssing when I got it.

It's not the best van towbar around, but it's the only one I've managed to get hold of so far.

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

thanks heaps for that mate. What I don't understand is how does it bolt up through the rear valance? All it is, is a thin sheet of metal, and wouldn't hold anything??? That's my understanding anyway.. Do you know if it attaches to something else or???

That picture is a big help to me, thanks heaps mate

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

No problem.

I don't know exactly how it was mounted originally, as it was removed from the car when I first saw it. I would imagine there were spreader plates in the rear floor just inside the rear doors. Long bolts would have gone through the spreader plates, floor, then rear valance and finally through the towbar. I'm sure there was some strengthening done to the rear subframe rail also, such as a piece of angle iron or similar.

If I ever use it, I would use sleeves around the bolts (inside the rear valance) to avoid crushing the valance when everything is tightened. Another option would be big spreader plates welded inside the valance with captive nuts. My Traveller will be getting a new rear valance anyway, so I can build in some extra strength there while it is off.

But if I see a better idea, I'd be prepared to copy that.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

that towbar could and would make a real mess if the trailer got caught on something.

The rear railing of the subframe is a very weak member, and with that setup, the rear valence would become the fulcrum point of the towbar and flex constantly when a trailer is attached...

I couldn't find the photos of my towbar, but I believe it is stronger and more structurally sound than any other mini towbar I've seen.

I essentially built a frame that sits inside the rear subframe, and the tongue bolts to it, so I take the tongue off when I'm not using it.

The rear rail of the subframe has a piece of angle mounted inside it, with a foot at either end that goes into the subframe, and bolts through it and down onto the bottom edge. The tongue support is welded under the angle, and runs back to the rear part where it is bolted together. The rear part sits above the exhaust (but below the hydro lines). It mounts down onto the sides of the subframe about 6" from the front, and I bolt it to plates that go underneath the subframe, and brace it back to the 3 layer join in the corners.

The subframe will rip out of the car before any part of the towbar lets go, and the towbar cannot make the body flex at any point... The subframe mounts take the weight of the trailer, and they are mounted to part of what I consider to be the strongest part of a mini which is the box section formed by the sill cavity and rear panel behind the footwell

I'd make a van towbar the same way, just with a longer tongue and I might pick up the seam below the tail lights where you have 3 panels joining together

as above the short bar has long bolts with sleeve(tube)which goes between floor and valance with big washers both sides
van is rated to tow 3cwt car is rated 4cwt hope this helps sorry got the wrong numbers

SK, I'd love to see some pics of your towbar next time you are under the car.

It sounds a bit heavy duty to me considering the low weight a Mini is permitted to tow?

But I may be able to revise my opinion if I saw it.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2