I can remember someone posting about this topic and mentioning a system that you can change the advance curve using a laptop via a black box under the dash set up
Just wanting to know the brand and if its any good

_________________
1970 MK2 Cooper S

Accuspark Black Box

Thread is here
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=83483&hilit=Accuspark

_________________

I have had one in for 18 months, all good.
Mine needs 10V+ to fire though.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I had three Stealth boxes all fry themselves, with no real reason. Ended up getting my money back (with great thanks to the Aus distributor) and have since fitted a Swiftune CSI dizzy, which has been faultless.

_________________
Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

Did they give an explanation. Bad batch or an issue with the coil?

Read the original post with all the comments
WOW it was more like Bathurst teams in the pits
My question is what if you out driving and it craps out
Will it let you limp home or are you Fardookered

My car is fitted with a Cranes Cams Fireball 700 optical ignition in a 29D dist
Just dont know how good the mech advance is without getting it tested
Might be easier to go this way

_________________
1970 MK2 Cooper S

Why don't you plot your curve and see what it looks like and the total advance you are getting. You probably have a 15 deg advance plate inside the 29D which means you have to set you static advance very low or you will get pinging at the top revs.

I used a dialback timing light and measured the advance at 500rpm intervals. Just used a graph program from the net. http://nces.ed.gov/nceskids/createagrap ... 3c1ffd3e4b

A good dial back timing light is probably worth more than this unit
One with a rev counter built in
Then after spending that money you find the dissy isnt well
Easier to put it on a test bench

_________________
1970 MK2 Cooper S

I have this dist spare but has no marking on it
Is it a Chinese one

_________________
1970 MK2 Cooper S

Looks similar the powerspark 43D4 that I bought. The advance curve from factory curved the opposite way and it had way to much advance.
I welded up the plate to 8 deg first then filed it back to 10 deg after some testing.

I also have the black box and electronic points. I had my dissy tested and the advance springs were stuffed. Even if they weren't stuffed then the original curve would likely not suit my motor or modern fuels.

The black box has allowed me to plot the best curve for my motor. It is now much smoother and more responsive.

Regards failing if you have a standard setup then you could just as likely have condensor or coil fail. If I go on a really long trip I just take spare dissy and coil.

Even with the black box if you were desperate you could pull apart the dissy and snip the wires to unlock the weights and reconnect the dissy as per normal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________

68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

I have an extra loom supplid by accuspark, it has a switch to bypass the black box for extreme cold weather starting. However you then have no advance, but it would limp home. Could just turn the dizzy a little as well, to get fair performance.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So does anyone have an idea what my Dist is

_________________
1970 MK2 Cooper S

Looks like a 45D style?

_________________

Looks like 43D (has no vac advance). Same as mine. Check number on body.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.