My MK2 Cooper S is fitted with period mods that were available in the early 1970s, they weren't all standard but they were available for Minis back then and some came from other contemporary Minis (everyone was wanting to "clubmanise" older round nose Minis at that time, so fitting items like clubman dash, seats and rear lights was quite common). I could restore it back to absolute originality, but I kindda like those early70s "upgrades" .

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Wow, thanks for all the replies and they are great. The advice has reassured what I was thinking. Much appreciated.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Flute,

Suggested work on wet suspension, along lines already suggested:
- standard dampers on front
- Minispares (or equivalent) competition bump stops all round
- file rear subframe radius arm outer brackets to get zero camber, can also weld on washer if needed
- fit Minispares (or equivalent) +1.5 neg camber front lower suspension arms
- adjust for 1/16 to 1/8 inch toe-out at front, add shims for 1/16 toe-in at rear
Once fitted this all looks pretty standard, but really improves the handling for fast road use. I'm using 4.5 inch S rims with 145-10 tyres, gives very predictable handling.

I found comp bumpstops too tall on the front, gave me poor turn in and understeer. Comp onea fine on the back. Otherwise agree with above.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think adding shims at the rear gives toe out.

Agreed.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks so much. Working on sub frames at the moment so very helpful.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

To be pedantic... Shims change toe outwards....

No shims = lots of toe in.... Adding shims reduces toe in, eventually to zero toe and then to toe out as more are added......

Cheers, Ian

I also found the competition front bump stops are too high but rear are OK. I usually pump the suspension to give about 25mm gap clearance between top of front bump stop and subframe. Or about 2 1/2 or 3 fingers between top of tyre and wheel arch.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Hi Flute,

I think you have already set your own precedent by fitting a Weber!

That will be the first thing we will all notice so after that no anorak is even going to care about an alternator!

Good to hear the resto is coming along nicely.

HRS

Briwllyant

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"Show me the Mini!"

Hi HRS, Agree Weber is non original but not too hard to change back whereas the alternator / generator swap requires a whole new wiring loom as far as I know. I like original but also want to have some fun with it. I know alternator is more efficient but is a generator a problem? Hope to be driving my car a lot. It was my daily until the smoke got too bad.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Generators are fine unless you have a whole bunch of driving/fog lamps or a big doof-doof stereo.
But use the Cooper pulley, the stock Mini one is too small for high rpm. My bro' sent 3 Lucas C40 armature windings into orbit on his Hillman Imp GT.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

"....Generators are fine unless you have a whole bunch of driving/fog lamps or a big doof-doof stereo..."

And they're working at full capacity... and as long as you don't use upgraded lights ..on a wet night, with the heater going ..or maybe in stop go traffic...or the battery has a few years on it...or maybe the cold and damp makes starting a bit harder....

Generators are like drum brakes.. fine as long as you don't stress them... but there's not a lot of margin.

And why would you need a new loom?? A small amount of rearrangement of the exisiting wiring is all that is necessary. If the alternator has a larger capacity than the old genny (why wouldn't you) then an upgraded output wire is a good idea.

Good luck, Ian

I have modded the regulator box before to convert to a alternator that way your not hacking the harness and if you want to go back to original it is easy