Fitting a rebuilt 1275 A+ into a friend's late model Moke. So did the right thing and replaced the idler gear bearings and the out-rigger bearing, all the seals and even the metalastic bush on the diff housing to support the rod-change support bar.
Thinking, it's almost ready to check the idler gear clearance and drop it on the donk, when I noticed something strange between the first gear on the mainshaft and the big double-row bearing.



It looks like the plastic cage supporting the ball bearings on the first gear side of the bearing has broken in several places allowing the balls to move somewhat independently. Most of the cage is loose and can move outwards, although the balls of course, can't move out of their race.



I'm not too keen on fitting the motor to a box that might destroy itself in the near future, but have never pulled a rod-changer apart. I'm thinking that if I can lock the gears up and undo the mainshaft nut, remove the diff and speedo drive housings, then the pinion I might be able to remove the bearing retainer, drift out the bearing and replace it without disturbing the rest of the box, which was apparently working quite well before we pulled the engine.
The question is ... how do you select two gears at the same time to lock the mainshaft? I know how to do it on the older remote change boxes, but I'm not familiar with this breed.

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

from memory it's something like drop the diff cover and roll the diff centre out. rotate the gear selector untill the tang is clear of the the shift forks then the shift rod should be able to be removed from the rear of the box. might need some force but they do come out, I think the collar it slides in comes out with it, then its able to be knocked into 2nd and 4th to lock the mainshaft and as the good book says { Haynes manual } reassembly is the reversal of the removal procedure.

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120bhp with 450kg just fun waiting to happen

We were prob. drunk when we set it up last and thought this will be a good idea

the interspool lock can be rotated up & away from the 3x selector levers/fork with the diff out
easy peasy

rip the diff out, the selector rod can rotate, with the interspool lock, up & away from the 3x little forks

remove the end cover (speedo drive housing)
push the 1st/2nd slider ring into first gear,,, then knock the 3rd/4th slider ring into top gear

remove pinion nut & pinion

remove the double row bearing retainer

slip-out the tab/plate that locates the leyshaft
slip the leyshaft out
roll the leygear up & out (after romoving the oil strainer pipe)
then using the correct circlip pliers you can pop-out the circlip holding the first motion gear & bearing assy out
punch out the 1st motion shaft/4th gear/bearing assy, (leaving it as a whole assy)

then you can slip/lever/pry the whole mainshaft away from the main gearbox web, leaving you plenty of room to smack the double row bearing out

so,,, push the double row bearing out

fit new double row bearing , but don`t forget to swap over the cirlcip onto the new bearing

& whack it all back together
easy-peasy

Matt

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Thanks Justfangingaround and Matt, the hardest bit will probably be letting the owner know he's up for $$$$.
In a way I'm glad to have seen the problem before it caused a failure, but I could do without the extra work

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com