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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 2:15 pm 
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Well if you want a 1098 one they are rare in UK and NLA new. Unlike 1275 or 998 ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 2:21 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Kaniva / Adelaide / Melbourne
the two I have are from 1098 motors, will have the first one out tomorrow so will see what it looks like. Will def get it crack tested, I gather I am looking for smooth surfaces where the bearings go, no gouges ect?
thanks,
Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 3:50 pm 
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1098 cranks crack in the corner of the big end journals, at the fillet radius. I have seen them break at front, back, or in the middle.
Back in 1968 I cracked all 4 journals of a new, shot peened 1098 crank in 20,000 miles. It did often see 8500rpm though. :(

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 7:17 pm 
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1098cc
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Thats a fair effort :-) just removed one, it rings nicely, would need a regrind ( is original i believe). Will get it crack tested and leave regrind to new owner ( will get advece from machinest how much he thinks it needs, not much im guessing). All pistons and rods look good, flywheel looks brand new, clutch definately was!. 4 synchro box, moves freely, no idea on condition from looking, lol. Had no oil in crankcase but very clean with thin coat of oil. Busy arvo!


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 8:38 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Victoria
Good one mooman. You're going down the proper route. I lift me lid to yer.


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 8:14 am 
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1360cc
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mooman10_0 wrote:
Just doesnt make sense to pay 200 for a regrind, 100 for crack test when they are only selling for $200?


A lot of automotive things don't make sense monetarily, but it is what it is. You're paying for labour basically.

That's like saying why should I pay $30 for this steak cooked to perfection when it's only a $7 slab of cow :idea:

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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 10:14 am 
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1098cc
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Location: Kaniva / Adelaide / Melbourne
My local engine builder will crack test them both and put head through the parts washer over night (usually come up great from past experience) for 60$, I think he is doing me a deal as he has done a fair bit of stuff for me :-). Will leave the regrind for the new owner but they will know they have a sound crank and head :-)


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 1:14 pm 
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I took a (-.010") 1098 crank to Spiro at St George Cranks today. Here's hoping... :)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 1:34 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Kaniva / Adelaide / Melbourne
What measurements am I looking for to know if it is a standard crank? You sa -.10 how does that work?
Cheers,
Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 2:16 pm 
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The smallbore cranks are all 1.750" mains and 1.625" big end journals when new. Measure with a micrometer, or a digital vernier.
Standard undersize bearings are .010", .020", .030" and .040" thou undersize.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 2:37 pm 
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1098cc
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i get ya. Basically measuring how much it has worn and regrind according. I can feel a small wear mark on a couple of points (very minor), still all nice and shiny


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 2:48 pm 
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If you can feel wear marks, it probably needs a regrind. You can feel 1/2 a thou with your fingernail.
Also if it has .001" ovality or taper it should be reground.
Best to crack test it BEFORE grinding, for $$$ reasons!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 3:13 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Kaniva / Adelaide / Melbourne
so -.010 is equal to how many though?
Cheers,
Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 3:21 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Kaniva / Adelaide / Melbourne
Im guessing that means 100th, so you would regrind to .02? And if you can feel .005 with your fingernail, and if that was all your crank was worn you would regrind to .01. Tell me if im on the right track, got to love maths, lol!


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 Post subject: Re: Crack testing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 3:22 pm 
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mooman10_0 wrote:
so -.010 is equal to how many though?
Cheers,
Steve


= 10 thou
[thousandths of an inch]

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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