Hi fellas, I have converted my 66 Deluxe to pot joints. About to refit the motor/gearbox. Which is the best/easiest/practicable way of refitting. Do I have the pot joints already fitted on the drive shafts and mate up to the gearbox as I lower it down, or do I have the pots on the gearbox first before lowering. Or maybe split the top ball joints and pull each driveshaft outwards for extra clearance.

Appreciate your help on this. Regards.

pot joints on the driveshafts, split the top ball joints, fit one side (I do the passenger side first) then the other. You need to have the engine almost all the way down - basically resting on the subframe. Get the pot started on the diff output shaft, then push on the hub/drive flange to force the driveshaft back into the pot joint and the pot all the way on to the diff output shaft

It'll take a bit of fiddling, and maybe a lift up and down, but persevere - and make sure the pot joint is going on to the shaft straight

taking the engine out is the same, split the top ball joints, then pop the pots off the diff

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Tops, thanks Simon.

Have done a few cars with a remote box and pot joints, in both cases we had to pop a top balljoint to get room, due to the shape of the remote diff housing having to fit under the rack.
Don't have this problem with rodchange boxes.

Another way, which avoids crawling about fitting the balls and boots is to assemble the pots onto the driveshafts complete.
Put car on stands, drop motor in (NO OIL IN IT), fit shafts complete, then hubs. Note the pots won't fit through the early subframes, but CVs will, so put them through from under the car. Then push pots into the gearbox, fit swivel hubs.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Having done it on my back (pot joints in, drop engine in and pop on driveshafts, balls, grease and trying to tie up the boot ties while lying on my back and cursing the whole time) I have decided this time to do up the driveshafts on the bench and slipping them in once the engine is in.

I think this is the neatest and best way to do it however it does come with problems, such as not being able to roll the car around on all 4 wheels. This is solved with a rolling trolley jack, the car is light enough to roll around in the garage just by pulling the trolley jack! (Granted I have a smooth painted concrete garage floor). The other downside is not able to fill the engine up with oil and turn it over to check oil pressure before dropping the engine into the car. That can also be solved with a spare set of pots if you're lucky enough to own any.

Completed these just yesterday:



The other way isn't bad either, just messy and difficult to keep the balls from dropping and rolling down the street covered in grease and dirt!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Gees, I don't want my balls rolling down my street, someone may pick them up and use em for marbles.

Good advise from all, all good points, much appreciated. I have time on my side so I've wacked her up on stands and top ball joints off and the bottoms loose just in case I need to pull the lot out. Not like the old rubber unis but the pots will be good once they are in. And I need to vent a bit anyway. We'll see how she goes.

Pot joints are easiest to install into car - you have the pot joint / balls / rubber boot and inner race all attached properly when it gets lowered into the car, then you slide sfaft in from the side.

No zip ties, no balls running away, nothing.

Yeah but I like to tie the pot joint boot to the driveshaft itself

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

so everyone agrees with me then...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I tell you what. Everyone come to my place and fit the motor and pot joints. I'll record the conversations and antics for all on here to see. Ha.

Seriously, you all have offered really good advise, good points in all arguments, it is very much appreciated. I'll let you know next week who is the winner of an elephant stamp.

Well, attempted this last week as my mate was coming to help me. The plan was he was going to lower the motor in while I was underneath to feed the complete pot joints in. Come the day he couldn't make it. I was determined to do it without help so the plan of attack changed. I removed the pots from the drive shafts and installed onto the gearbox first, and wrapped the exposed balls in glad wrap and duct tape. Lowered the motor assembly in, crawled underneath and slipped the balls back into the pots. I think the original way would have been the easiest with 2 people, but in the end it wasn't too hard at all and no balls rolled down the street.

You did well, I ended up doing this yesterday and two balls dropped onto the garage floor

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I am sure I have seen someone have the shafts, in the pots, on the engine with the ball, stealing arm and shock off then drop the engine in aligning the outer CV and it all paps into place fairly well.

or am I just dreaming?

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

Yes that works IF you are running a rod change box. It doesn't work with a remote box as the diff housing fouls near the rack and holds the gearbox too far forward.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.