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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 9:35 pm 
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I know it's been asked 1000 times and I have read through many of the discussions already but as I am ABSOLUTELY hopeless with electronics, can someone just set me straight:

I am going from Bosch alternator conversion back to Lucas Alternator. The Bosch has 3 cables, 1 big one which goes to solenoid but I have two smaller ones and both go to the fused ign switch of my fuse box. (The one that only has power when the ign key is switched on). Not sure why there's two but that's beside the point.

Is this how the Lucas 16/17ACR works? as in the bottom right diagram below?

Image

Basically if I connect only one of those cables from the Lucas alternator to the switched fuse box, isn't that the same as the bottom right diagram?

Ping ConvertibleMini :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 10:05 pm 
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Yes.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 10:07 pm 
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Internal regulator so one wire to battery, one to alternator and the other to the ign. light.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 10:32 pm 
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Thanks for the straight answer Steve. I might even have her running sooner than I thought with this out of the way

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 6:33 am 
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The positive cable from the alternator should go to the battery via the solenoid?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 9:09 am 
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Yes, the +ve from the alternator should go to the battery, in this case the battery cable to the starter solenoid. The other is your ign. light, brown/yellow I think is the colour.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 8:55 am 
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Although Minis were never built with any Electrical protection against reverse polarity it is advisable to install a fusible link on the Positive cable that feeds from the Battery side of the solenoid to the Alternator B+ terminal. Always closest to power source. It is much cheaper to replace a Fusible Link then replacing smoked out wires in the event of a battery mistakenly connected back to front.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:14 am 
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What specification of fuse?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:47 am 
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Lillee wrote:
I The Bosch has 3 cables, 1 big one which goes to solenoid but I have two smaller ones and both go to the fused ign switch of my fuse box. (The one that only has power when the ign key is switched on). Not sure why there's two but that's beside the point.


With respect to the two small wires.

One is the alternator field supply and the other is the voltage sense. Field supply is the current which creates the rotating magnetic field which makes the big current flow. Voltage sense brings a measurement of the car's battery voltage to the alternator to tell it how hard it needs to work.

Sure both wires can do the same job of supplying 12 volts to the back of the alternator, but the voltage sense is supposed to test for exact battery voltage at the battery. The voltage sense wire should go to the solenoid for this reason.

It does this because testing the voltage at the other spots is not accurate. Resistances in the copper wire at high current show a higher voltage at the back of the alternator, and lower voltages at the fuses. Only small differences, but battery condition is based on decimal point differences in voltage.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 11:30 am 
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Yes, but the Lucas does not have a voltage sense so the wire is now redundant. Just a big one to the solenoid/battery, the other to the ign. light.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 12:05 pm 
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As I have explained to Chong for the last 2 days. Somehow the wiring got butchered when the bosch alternator got fitted years ago. He needs to trace wiring from the light.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:26 pm 
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Stev0 wrote:
Yes, but the Lucas does not have a voltage sense so the wire is now redundant. Just a big one to the solenoid/battery, the other to the ign. light.


Yes, its tied to old technology. I believe it was a hangover from very early alternators setups. Modern regulators test for battery voltage much more intelligently. I have seen battery regulators stopping charging for a moment to test battery voltage before resuming charge.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:29 pm 
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Thanks guys. So if it blows up I can blame all of you right??? :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 2:44 pm 
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You know Ausmini. Our "Bullet Proof"* warranty extends to five minutes or the first start.











*Not actually bullet proof.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:57 pm 
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Yes I'm sure he is only joking.


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