My temp gauge reads 1/4" past cold when the engine is stone cold. Can this be adjusted or should I just get another gauge? More annoying than anything...

Cheers

Michael

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

You might need to let us know if it's mechanical or electric and whether the the 1/4" is below or above the zero point.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, it reads high and is a standard Mk1 electric gauge.

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Is the voltage regulator on the back of the dash doing it's job?

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Is your fuel gauge reading normally? Usually if the voltage stabiliser is playing up the fuel gauge will read out too as power comes from the same place.

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Fuel gauge is fine..

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Sounds mechanical if reading high with ignition off. Time for a new gauge. Probably cheaper than fixing it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that there is adjustment. There should be a screw on the back.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

With nothing better to do I just had a good look at my temp gauge. There is no adjustment screw on the back so I carefully dismantled it. You can do this without removing the gauge from the dash. By removing the chrome bezel the glass can be removed leaving the gauge faceplate in place. This can be removed by gently lifting a locating tab and VERY carefully manoeuvring the faceplace out slightly and down over the needle. You have to be careful here not to bend/ damage the needle, and the mechanism driving the needle is very delicate. (There is a small cutout at the top of the faceplate where the needle enters the front of the faceplate from the mechanism inside the gauge housing).
With this done, I cleaned out some cobwebs! 50 odd years of dust and a small insect (dead!). I gave the needle a gentle tweek as I suspect it was slightly catching the faceplate near where it enters the cutout previously mentioned and reassembled the lot
Stone cold, the needle now sits on the middle of the C for cold. Is that how it should be? Anyone care to check theirs please?
I've just started the car (from cold, and it's freezing cold here in Melbourne!) and waiting to see what happens. Previously with this engine, the temp would read about 1/3rd towards H, just below 1/2 way if I left the engine idling for half an hour. Here's hoping! If nothing else, I now have a clean faceplate and gauge glass! What I really should do is get hold of a laser thermometer and find out exactly what the temp is doing....

Cheers

Michael

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Yes mine sits in middle of C when stone cold.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Coz when ya hot ya hot, and when ya not, ya not

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"Show me the Mini!"

Update.
The car's been idling now for an hour and the temp gauge is reading in between 1/3 and 1/2 way, where I expected it to from previous experience. I really should check what the actual temperature is for peace of mind though I do remember when in Indo the gauge never reached 1/2 way..
Seems I may have fixed it? Hope idling it for an hour is not detrimental!

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

I wonder what the gauges were set at from the factory ?
would 1/2 way , normal be 84 deg , as in the thermostat setting ?
what is the temp range from cold to hot ?

Mine is around 76C at the N point. Measured at thermo housing with an infrared thermometer.
Voltage stabiliser is an electronic 10V one from 'wombat'

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Slacko,

That is a very good question! From the factory, what was N on the gauge supposed to be indicating to us about the coolant temp in degrees C (would have been F at the time)?! Presumably it would depend on what thermostat was installed. In fact what is supposed to be the temp range from C to H on the gauge?
Luckily I have never had a problem where the needle went close to H. Hopefully if you did suffer a coolant failure of some sort, the needle would zoom to H?
I'm sure some of the guru's here will have some answers....
Happy to report that after idling the car for an hour(!) earlier today, took it for a drive and the temp dropped back to 1/3. Now, stone cold at 10 pm the needle is sitting on the centre of C for cold. I seem to have fixed the thing with a good clean out and inspection but I'd still love to know what the actual temps are...

Cheers

Michael

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..