Does anyone know if the copper Nickle tube is ok for hydro lines? I cannot find anyone who sells these lines. If I have to I will use the original type Bundy tube and bend them myself. I have a tube bender for 3/8 tube. Tip for the body restorers, always use weld thru primer on all your welded joints copper or zinc in a spray can.We don't want the restored minis to rust. P767676

I thought "bundy" tubing was seamless steel tube with copper/nickle ( or a modern alloy) electroplating?
I got mine from a large brake centre as truck brake line. The older type seemed to be more malleable than some newer shiny stuff that wanted to kink more easily.
It was a bit easier fitting and bending when the shell was on its side.

CuNiFe tube should be fine, but pretty pointless as the original bundy style lines did last fifty years afterall.

A lot of the bundy tubing these days is coated in the matt green plating which is not so very consistent with the original plating, but should otehwise be fine. Some specialist classic car brake shops sell the bundy in zinc, should you want to keep it original

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Related hijack-
What do you do for the ends fittings, use originals and silver solder, or can you buy them?
I had no joy buying new 5/8-18 UNF correct flared hose barbs for displacer hoses, so I've been crimping new hoses onto old ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I haven't needed to fiddle with the displacer hoses Kev, I have a good stock of rears to this day

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

The ends of new hydro lines will need to be double flared (no soldering) - like brake lines - and using the original tail nuts for appearances. I don't know whether UNF tail nuts are still available for hydro pipes but, as Dr Kev said, they are not available for the hose end tail nuts and barbs.

I used stainless steel hydraulic tubing for my hydro lines and reused the original end fittings. Folded them with a hand tube bender to match the originals and they are now in and fit very well.

the issue isn't the availability of the 3/8 unf fittings but finding the correct seat angle. I believe the correct angle is 37 degrees (jic standard) but most of the stuff now is AN. both are dimensionally the same but AN is a military standard for tolerance (army navy). If you go for AN there should be a fair bit of gear available as these are used for hydraulic lines and fuel lines.

the problem I have at the moment is these tapers seem to get over tightened resulting in damaged seats. I need a tool to reprofile them.

Any idea where Mick, I searched a while back and couldn't find any except the green stuff in the hydro line diameter

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Power Brakes here in SA list 3/8" Bundy tube on their web store and may have it in silver or gold rather than the green. I know they carry the smaller sizes in 'other than green' as the restorers and rodders were after it (lots of exposed lines on a hot rod).
https://www.powerbrakes.com.au/shop/index.php/page/shop/flypage/product_id/1551/category_id//offset/0?

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Don't listen to what I am saying... just understand what I mean.

Easy peasy

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-pipe-B ... SwPcVVruif

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks Tim and Mick.
Much appreciated

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