Hello ,
Seems like

I am asking questions all the time, anyhow I bought a reconditioned steering rack I was informed they were better than the new ones, I have just fitted the steering and found the wheel too hard to turn. Took the rack out and removed a shim, not much difference then I removed both shims a little better ,but when you turn the SW it feels lumpy. Maybe I should return it and get another. Lucky I am not fitting the engine until next week.THANKS
P7676

Was there a question in there somewhere?

The question is has anybody had these problems and is the fix ,to get another SR?
Also gtogreen you were wrong about the CS master cylinders there is no non return valve and the brake master cylinder has .7 embossed on it.

My 2 bob's worth:
1. Removing shims from either plate makes it tighter not looser.
2. Rack bushes sold now for Oz racks are polyurethane not felt. This makes the rack feel stiffer until it beds in. There are 3 brands, all are tighter on the rack bar.
The blue ones are worst for this.

I have rebuilt nearly 100 racks over many years.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Did you try to turn the pinion gear using multi grips, with the rack on the bench before fitting? It should turn smoothly but with a little help from the multi grips to get slight amount of leverage - no lumpies.

Also, did you fit and tighten the pinch clamp bolt at the bottom of the steering column (joining the inner column to the pinion shaft of the rack) BEFORE tightening the rack U-bolts to allow the column to align with the pinion and turn smoothly.

Removing the shims (from the rack damper, I assume) will cause the rack to tighten up and be harder to turn.

Put the shims back in and give it time to loosen up.

I thought gtogreen was right: there is/should be a non-return valve at the end of the spring on brake M/C at the far end of the bore. It's a domed disc with a pinhole in it, surrounded by rubber and looks like a cup.
Brake M/C are usually .70" , which I understood gto to have said. Some early minis did have .75" brake M/C.

The tins have the non return valve. Its been ages since i rebuilt the later plastic one and can't recall if they use one. Because the fluid level in a plastic tank sits higher they may not.

Bill B maybe you are right Stopmasters reconditioned the MCs they said no non return valve on the Lockheed .7
P7676

Yes you should have a non return valve in the brake master cylinder

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1965 Morris 850
1966 Morris Mini Minor
1967 Morris Cooper 'S'
1977 Leyland LS

The non-return valve is in tin and plastic reservoir types from my experience. Thought the overhaul kits were the same. It slows the fluid return and helps keep a slight pressure in the brake hydraulic lines so there is less pedal movement to take up any free play when applying the brakes.

Here is the explanation in the Manual. Stops fluid drain back on hills.

Is that pointing up the incline or pointing down the incline?
This is sounding like an urban myth.

The valve in the brake master cylinder is a residual pressure valve, not a non-return valve.
The original type valve was white plastic with a metal spring tube. Later ones use the rubber type.
Its purpose is to retain a small amount of pressure in the brake lines on cars with drum brakes.
This is to ensure that the wheel cylinder seals are always slightly expanded.
This is to ensure that any ovality in the brake drums, which can cause the brake shoes to move slightly, does not allow air to be drawn into the wheel cylinders when the brake shoes move.
Cars with 4 wheel disc brakes don't need the residual pressure valve.

Hope this helps
RonR

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

Thanks. Very Interesting. I remember the white plastic now.
So a cooper would still require the valve since the rears are drum?