G'day champions - awesome to see some discussions! The last week has been both successful and unsuccessful. The successful part is that, despite having no air temp sensor or throttle position sensor (purely because the parts hadn't arrived and I was impatient) I managed to get the engine running and sounding mean. I didn't run it for long as the ECU assumed that the thorttle was closed (understandably with nothing connected) and assumed that the air temp was 120*C. Understandably it didn't run for long - but alas, once the ignition timing was confirmed at TDC, it fired up relatively quickly. It was awesome. It sounded red hot. Cannot wait to get it going again. Who wants to see a video?
The unsuccessful part is that the head gasket (modified BK450) does not work in this application with a K1200 head. It may work on other heads (K100 or K1100) but the coolant galleries were open to the atmosphere and leaked like a siv... no seriously - this was something out of nightmare the amount it was leaking green stuff from between the block and head. No biggie, this was after the first start so no damage has occurred. In order to help me fix a few niggling oil leaks, I pulled the engine out of the car to do this one.
dalmeny wrote:
The distance you spaced the MED pulley out will require you to space the fan pulley out the same distance to keep the belt straight. Also check that the centre of the crank sensor is over the teeth, it looks a bit far across.
I have just read the last post. Now if I am reading this right the BMW TPS, which has 4 pins, can be modified by joining 2 of the pins into 1 wire, which creates and single sweep action, 0-100%. If this is correct it's taken 8 years for me to find the solution
I would love a pic of the wiring at the TPS.
Lastly on the injectors, stand bmw were way too small, 370cc were way to big. Without going back and having a look I think I finished up with 260cc or there abouts out of a v6 Commodore.
When you remove the tooth from the trigger wheel take note of what degrees (ie degrees from your crank sensor) the Haltech recommends
Thanks Steve - I'll have a look at the crank position sensor and ensure it is in the right spot. All the belts are lined up after I moved everything over a smidge. It seemed to work okay but I'll double check. Yes you've read my assessment correctly. I will get you a pic of the wiring this weekend as I hope to get it back in the car and running. Hopefully it does work!
Yep - agreed. I ended up with Bosch 775 injectors from a V6 magna. They should do the trick, but we will see. Running the standard BMW fuel pressure reg that is in the fuel rail. That's what you're running hey? Also running a pretty speccy fuel pump that's probably overkill.
9YaTaH wrote:
Wrt to the two potentiometers...the only thing I can think of is that there are two different circuits used by the ECU for slow speed (Normal driving)/high speed (Full throttle etc) response from the throttle...what does the ECU description say about inputs from Pins 1 and 3?
http://www.rfcafe.com/references/electr ... -world.htmThanks 9YaTaH - they aren't
inputs so to speak as they are subject to what is happening in the workings of the TPS. They are a function of the input voltage (Pin 2) and the position of the potentiometers which is based off of throttle position. Agreed that the double pot set up may be some fancy thing that BMW thought of that I have not considered, but this is what we are here to do - learn and experiment. They may not be exactly linear, but any solution that gives some reading from 0-100% throttle movement, even if it is slightly exponential, is better than having a solution where there is only fidellity between 0-20% and the same readings from 21%-100%.
ECU tuning will be able to account for any discrepancies as a result of non-linearity. Remember, the ECU is not just reading off of TPS to schedule engine functions such as ignition timing and fuel injection. It also reads MAP pressure. One day when I add it in, it will also have an O2 wideband controller.
murty wrote:
Since you are using coil-on-plugs instead of a wasted spark coil pack, do you need a cam signal to identify number 1 firing?
If so, how do you plan to add the cam signal (use the distributor with a modified pick-up to identify number 1 cylinder?)?
l
Hey Paul, good question mate. If you'd asked me that same question 3 years ago I would've had NFI what you're talking about, which was largely when I'd commited to running the haltech with COP lol.
It currently is running wasted spark because I don't have a Cam position sensor. I will keep this in my back pocket for later as I don't think it would be too hard to modify the intake cam pulley and have another reluctor sensor referencing "Home" position so that it can run sequential firing.
Fingers crossed some replacement oil seals arrive this week and if they do, I'll have the engine in the car and ready to turn the key this weekend with the aim to get it idling nicely. I'll leave you all with this:
New vs old head gasket.
New = custom Cometic MLS for K1100 conversions
Old = modified BK450 with bits of gasket goo''d into place to make up the differences