Everyone seems to think dry suspension set up is better however my current mini has wet suspension which seems to handle fine at the limit I have taken it so far (It has shocks on the front as well). My question is what does everyone think is best for:

Handling?


Ride Quality?


Also would there be any advantages to setting the fluid lines to diagonally opposite corners of the car similar to Audis mechcanical system rather than just front to back?

Minster, this is like the troubles in N Ireland there is no clear winner. I prefer dry myself but the Mini had wet suspension and especially with shocks allround is as good as (some say better) than dry.

_________________
225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

I just bought this weekend a wet Mk II, and I love it - there's a lot of speed bumps round our neighbourhood, and it's uncanny how the car just lifts and drops as it goes over. No pitching at all. The potential for additional maintenance is one thing to bear in mind.

I got quite a surprise when I removed one wheel to find no damper, just a funny gate spring...

I've got one of each, guess what- the wet one handles and rides better. OK... so it's got front shocks & comp rear bumpstops..
And the dry one has hi-los..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

and when the Doc gets a couple of pairs of vicegrips to go full independent...watch out!!

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Nah... I reckon it handles better now than the SuziMinis do around Wakefield..
Maybe some needle valves or restrictors in the lines though...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Does anyone have any opinions about switching the lines to diagonly opposite rather then just front to back? Seems like a good possibility to me, i have a dry cone set up waiting to be fitted but am considering staying with the wet and keeping the dry for another project seen as tho wet is working so well.

I can't imagine what the thing would handle like....ATM you have a heavy lump of engine up front countered by not much weight out back with a self leveling setup on each side for when you throw it into corners....

I'm trying to imagine the dynamics of the natural tendancy to kneel at the front being countered by the rear wanting to drive up because the other front is unloaded.....hmmmm...sky, road, sky, road..

I don't think it would be a pretty sight ....wheres Fuzzy Hair...here's a thesis subject for ya

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

I think if you have dry then stay dry, if you have wet then stay wet. If anyone tells you that wet cars don't go as good as dry then they are bullshitting you

I've been in both and dry cars do go pretty good, but the ride is... harsh, esp on sydney roads... Lillee on the other hand, floats on fluid baby! I was just thinking that at 110km/h to katoomba yesterday

...and goes pretty darn well with front shocks and rear competition bump stops. Also helps if the hydro is pumped up correctly...

My thoughts are, if you are going to drive to the Hydro suspension's limit then there are much more things to consider and get right before thinking about going dry, like tyres for one.

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I've been in both and dry **** do go pretty good, but the ride is... harsh,
chong i prefer ***** wet ........*******
makka

_________________
Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Thanks Mick, I'll consider it Reckon your right with the linking hydro suspension diagonly having the displacers linked on one side stops body roll if they were linked from one side to the other body roll might become a problem.

I might be wrong with this but it's my guess that a hydro mini should suffer less from body roll going round corners (not that this is a huge problem) but on a rubber cone the suspension on the inside of the corner can lift and the far side compress.

With a hydro the suspension travel only comes into play if there is a difference in load between the front and back wheels on one side. Going round a corner there should be roughly the same load on both the inside wheels and the same load on both the outside wheels so there is no suspension travel across the car going round corners. Just what you want.

_________________
---
Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Diagonal hydro lines? Think carefully- taking a LH bend, body roll, inside rear wheel will drop trailing arm height and its displacer will take fluid from the RH front one which will then kneel.
Sorry guys but I don't think it'll work.

SuzukiMinis that I've seen built had the F/R lines removed, making 4 separate circuits. Sort of wet rubber cone suspension. I'm yet to be convinced that they handle better... !

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah that makes sense. I will try and find the article that I read a while back about the audis system. So to further enhance what I have I should get:

Rear Shock Absorbers
Competition rear bumpstops (how much, where from?)

FRONT shocks, NOT rear... Stockers are fine. I run Pedders...

Comp rear bumpstop kit is C-AJJ3313, $68 at Karcraft.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah i thought you only put them on the front but someone mentioned the back as well. I already have Gaz shock absorbers on the front. So what do I do to recondition the system. What parts do I need and can I still get them?