There is a serious design problem with the centre oil pickups being sold now. I had to do serious surgery to a new one last week to make it fit and work properly.
If you buy one please don't just throw it in without checking the mesh position. Even if it fits your gearbox.
1.
It did not fit, the mounting bolts wouldn't go in, pipe bend angle was wrong.
2.
3/4 of the strainer mesh was covering the pipe.
3.
The mounting plate was crooked on the pipe.
As these are Tig welded inside now not brazed, i couldn't move it so had to machine it tapered.

If it had fitted, due to the strainer position it would have starved the oil pump.
I fixed this by removing the mesh, cutting the bottom half of the pipe as per the originals were years ago, and resoldering the mesh.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Geez there are some crap parts being sold now.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

I know what you mean Kev, I had all the same issues.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=100350

Phil

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

I assume you have taken this up with the supplier? Did it come direct from the UK or a local supplier?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

It was bought locally but was in a Minispares bag.
I've not spoken to the vendor yet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Mine also from Minispares but purchased direct.
I also fitted one to a previous gearbox build and I had to also “tweak” the bends to get it to fit but at least the screen was installed better.

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

Would you use a washer and spring washer or washer and nyloc on the centre pickup bracket bolt ? I have read somewhere that nyloc nuts are good for 250deg F or 120deg C.

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

They are hex head bolts into the pickup pipe flange.
I use loctite on the threads if I don't have the lock tab.

Edited for clarity.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

How can you tell if it is a good one or not.
I have one here that I bought years ago from Minispares but never used.

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Cheers Dave.

You can see in the first photo that:
The pipe has a straight cut on the end
The mesh is pushed on so far that there isn't a lot of filtering surface

The earlier ones had an angle cut on the pipe, or a section removed like in the second photo. Again this increases the filtering area and reduces the chances it'll become blocked

In the linked thread by Phil you can also see that some foul the reverse gear. Mine needed a but of rebending to clear the reverse gear too

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Sit it in the empty gearbox.
If the mounting flange cannot be held flat against the gearcase you will need to increase the obtuse angle where it bends down. It needs to go through the hole in the gearbox web below the cluster gear. This mod is usually needed in a remote shift box. Also check that the mesh clears the reverse shift lever. If not it'll wear through. Bend as above until it clears.

Not always needed in a rod change box.

Also check where the mesh is soldered on, you want about 1/2 the mesh sticking out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks, I will check the pipe and mesh when the shed is not an oven.
I do not have an empty gearcase at the moment.

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Cheers Dave.

So, the older minispares item I have here has a straight cut end but the mesh extends a good inch or so past the pipe end. The angles and plate look right when compared to a remote box but I cannot fully check as it is a complete box but it appears to be ok.
There seems to be more slight bends and angle changes on mine than in the pictured one from the doc.

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Cheers Dave.