just looking at a combined inlet and exhaust manifold and wondered if it was do-able to saw the exhaust bit off, and use the inlet only if headers will fit between..
obviously it wont be the prettiest job but if pretty doesnt matter any reason why not??

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No longer Ms Westwoods mini outside her original kings road shop

hehe just did the exact thing today on one mate, should work fine, just dont go putting a hole in the inlet manifold like i did

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

cut closer to the exhuast side like through the ehaust then grind it back but be carfull
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

cheers dudes not only prompt, but also the answer i wanted ... wooooo hooooo

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No longer Ms Westwoods mini outside her original kings road shop

when I changed from the standard minifold to extractors and seperate inlet m'fold i was going to do the same thing... however i was told that the feul would not reach a high enough temperature to allow for effficient burn (especially in winter months) and therefore your engine will not run as well as it should. You can get a water heated inlet m'fold for about $160 new that solves this.

Vizard's book advices that you seperate the inlet and exhaust manifolds even if you are going to use both The reason they were joined was as nullabor says to increase the temperature and atomise fuel better. But the joining of the exhaust and inlet manifold forms hotspots which means the fuel atomisation is not even and inlet temperatures can be too high. Sawing the manifolds appart solves this and in our climate there is not much use for a heated manifold I guess.

I can't remember whether this increased the performance straight away or if it increased because you could increase the CR or something similar

Up shot of it was you proably don't need a heated manifold and if you do heating it from the exhaust manifold (whilst simple and a kind of neat idea) is not a very good way to do it.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

the way i look at it is, you want to keep heat away from any of the inlet parts, cold air in, hot out thats the way it should be, heating the inlet manifold in our climate is just robbing hp i think.

I not 100% on carbis but i know that no car these days run heated manifolds, if anything there all trying to keep them cool, but probably different with injection cars.

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

As above, no need for a heated inlet manifold in OZ. In england in winter it may be a bonus, but who wants to be in england during their winter?

The inlet manifold (once seperated or for twin setups, custom manifolds etc) gets heated enough just by proximity to the exhaust.


Oh, and if you do bugger that one, i can send you a spare!

Matt

Umm, Have any of you guys ever seen a frozen SU carb?
My car has done it a few times down here and can even happen when I drive to Sydney.
It just takes a cool morning with a bit of fog or mist and constant throttle freeway driving.

Cold air + fuel = evaporative cooling = Ice in carby.
Fuel injection does not have these problems.

Something i've found with my 1275 LS when it comes to the temperature of the engine.

My setup is LCB extractors and twin HS2's from a Cooper S.

Start the engine up in the morinings, and takes ages to get to running temp. However, start the engine up (no matter what the temp is) after it has been running (could of been sitting for 2 hours) and it's already at running temp, but shows that the temp is real low on the meter.

I've put this down to the actual temp of the carb/inlet manifold.

It will be interesting to see if this problem stays once I get the single HIF44 on with a water heated manifold.

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