Just took the wheels off to put the new greenstuffs in and there is deep scouring on the outside of the driver's side rotor. There is also absolutely no brake pad material left there. There is still a reasonable ammount of it on the inside pad and the passenger side rotor is fine as well with pad material and no scratches on the rotor.
I knew there was a problem as a scratching sound started coming from there yesterday at braking. Just goes to show how crap my eye is coz I measured the pads a few months back and they were still above minimum.

Now obviously I'm getting two rotors today (coz the scratches on the drivers side are deeeeeeep) but should I be looking at anything else that could have caused such uneven wear of the pads?

PM sent Mike.
Probably 1 piston is sticking a bit.. may be time for 4 new seals (and pistons too, if chrome has rust spots).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks doc.

Ok got the rotors with a courier today, then realised that I dont have a socket big enough to crack the big hub nut - so gonna have to find one tommorow they are 1 5/16'' right?

Oh and while the calipers are off what teltale signs of stuffed pistons shoud i be looking for?

Mike,

Hub nuts are 1-5/16", but replacements now are made in EU or wherever from 34mm hex bar.
So if buying a new socket now, I'd get a 34mm one. It will still work with the old nuts.

Original pistons are hardchromed, but later replacements (some) are S/S. Look for rust spots around the outside diameter of the piston coming through the chrome(inside piston it means nothing).
Wipe the pistons with a damp cloth. If pistons push back in OK and are not leaking, OK. If not strip them and rekit.

Don't try to put the new dust seals in if you've never done them (they are fragile)- bring to me and I'll use DrMini special service tool #8...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It'll have to do for now anyway coz I didnt order any new pistons or dust seals from Karc.

Cool.
Are you coming to Wakefield Pk on Thursday?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well I've got a major exam on Friday so............................yea I probably will (its my last semester so no point starting getting serious about uni work now) .


I'm working the whole of the w.end so cant start on putting the new rotors on till Monday so if I can get a few things done by the Thurs (like puting my brakes and wheels back on for eg) I'll be there.

Finaly got to finishing the rotors tonight - just wondering (this question is mainly directed at the Doc) the Haynes book of lies says the torque for the hub nut should be 50-60 lb/ft. Is my memory toying with me or did you say it should be 150lb

DRUM brake hubs (also 998-998 Cooper) are 60lb/ft.

DISC HUBS are 150-200lb/ft. Tighten to 150, then tighten further to align the splitpin hole.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just goes to show how god damned "careful" Haynes were with their editing of anything they didnt directly copy from the BMC mechanics manual (much of which they've screwed up as well). Haynes is the only manual (out of Leyland black book, an early scientific publications and a Gregorys one) that includes a section on replacing disk rotors and I thought I'd refer to it just to make sure I havent missed anything. Will continue to rely on Kevin G's manual in the future instead.


Doc have you ever considered putting your advice on paper and publishing it? Could sell it on Ebay - (coz all ausmini people are usualy too poor to pay for anything they can copy).