Ok now that my mini isn't riding on the bump stops, I think I've narrowed down the knocking noise to be coming from the steering rack.
It knocks/clunks when going over bumps in a straight line, but doesn't while turning.

With the car jacked up and I manually turn the steering with the wheel I can see about 5mm of play (up & down) in the steering rack appears to be wihin the rubber boot cover (see pic below). It clunks when I do this.

So what's the diognosis - New steering rack? If so is this an engine out job cause it sure looks like it?

yep, the felt in the left side of the rack is stuffed.... best to get a changeover rack

it's not an engine out job.... you can do it by dropping the subframe down 5-4 inches, you can do it leaving your hydro pressurised, but you need to be careful of the flexible lines... undo the gearbox remote and the top engine steady, support the subframe, undo all the bolts and let it come down enough to wiggle the old rack out and the new one in...

this is often voted the worse job on a mini....

Voted the worst job on a mini hey, well at least every job after that one will be easy.
Seriously though thanks for the reply, any idea how much for a change-over and who supplies them?
Just noticed you're from Northeast Vic Is that your mini in the avatar? Looks very nice.

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Mate, I just read your story about the demise of your cooper, what a bummer.
At least you haven't lost your passion!

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tim the easy way of doing it
undo the bolts on the subframe under neath and up top at the back remove the engine stedies lower the subbie undo two u bolts slide out drivers side and then reverse procedure to reinstall
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Thanks Makka,

So once the u-bolts are undone, does the whole rack come out or just the ends?

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Whole rack comes out.
BTW parts to fix these are still available, I got pinion bearings and Belleville spring washers from Ken Nelson at http://www.miniauto.com.au/home.htm

Nolathane makes a hex shaped poly bush to replace the felt one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

^^^So are these the only parts I need to order and do I order 2 of everything to do both sides?

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I got my nolathane bush from Karcraft. Racks are not as expensive as you may think but replacing the parts is by far cheaper and you get to learn how the rack works at the same time!

Thanks Bromley

It's probably not a bad thing not having a mini expert nearby, so I'm having to the work myself which gives me a real buzz, especially when it works!

So, when you fixed your rack did you replace anything else?

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Just the bush, but I see Dr Mini was talking about some bearings and washers. My original felt bush was fine but thought that while I had it out I should do it.

The most failure prone part on these old racks is the 2 `belleville' (tapered) spring washers that preload the rack against the pinion. They fatigue from old age.
I would replace these while rack is out, check the pinion bearings too- they are usually OK unless rack has been run out of lube.
Kc didn't have these washers or bearings last time, but Mini Automotive did.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Will do.

Thanks Doc

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Might do too,
Thanks Doc