The exhaust bracket that bolts to the gearchange housing which is just a flat piece of metal, which is broken in two.

Is there a better setup available?

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I've never seen anything different - it's really there to keep the front of the exhaust moving with the motor, so it's not flexing at the manifold.... which I reckon would be worse - that's why it's a solid mounting.

a likely cause of it breaking would be the motor moving too much, so check the engine steady rubbers, from your thermostat housing to the firewall, and from above the flywheel housing to the firewall - a visual check, and you shouldn't be able to rock the motor by pushing on the rocker cover



(and I'm still not over my cooper, and I'm nervous driving down hills on windy roads..)

I only have one engine steady (above flywheel housing) I don't have one from the thermostat

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ah, no worries... yours is an early clubbie, so it has a remote change gearbox with a big chunky aluminuim gearchange housing running back to the gearstick, instead of 2 pissy rods.... the aluminuim housing acts as an engine steady

BUT if yours does have the 2 pissy rods, then you're gonna want to get the extra engine steady, cos your motor must jump about all over the place with only the single engine steady - which would give you broken exhaust bracket...

Correct. it's a 72 Clubman with the aluminium casing.

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Yep as its a remote Gear changer..you only need the engine mount above the clutch..Check that the rubbers are good and if not replace all four of them..Additionaly you also have one the holds the end of the remote alloy box..Check the at also and the bolts that holds the Brack onto the floor

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

The mount that holds the remote to the floor bracket just under your handbrake leaver might have its rubber part separating from the metal core - which would make it much looser.

Thanks I'll check it out.

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Watch the floor bracket position- it should be slid forward, up against the rubber mount. Otherwise it will shear the mount easily.
If set right they last for years.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.