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 Post subject: Lock Wired??
PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:34 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
Boostedmini wrote:
yeah they do look they way but they are in fact the std bolt not a stud and nut set up


So do the pairs normally get figure-eight lock wired once you have torqued them down :?:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 9:49 am 
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998cc
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well i have not thought of that before, but the bolts do not have hole's in them for any tie wire hhhmmm :?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 3:45 pm 
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Mick these particular bolts (which are good!) are not designed for that. GR and I (and many others) just run them down with Loctite 262 on the threads, no problem.
We have given up using the old BMC sheet metal locktabs because they are so soft now that they compress, you then finish up with a looser bolt. :wink:

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 Post subject: The Castle
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 5:46 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Mick these particular bolts (which are good!) are not designed for that. GR and I (and many others) just run them down with Loctite 262 on the threads, no problem.
We have given up using the old BMC sheet metal locktabs because they are so soft now that they compress, you then finish up with a looser bolt. :wink:


Thanks Doc...I was just curious about the castellation (why :?: )...but a good bolt....is of course a good bolt...it could be allen headed for all that it matters.

So are they after-market :?: just don't recall seeing such devices in an A Series before.

The question remains...is a positive locking arrangement recommended for cap bolts (make new locktabs up if necessary :idea: or drill and lockwire)...or do you swear by the 262 goop method :?:

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 Post subject: Re: The Castle
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 5:49 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
[or do you swear by the 262 goop method :?:


I think thats a given... :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 6:15 pm 
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998cc
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They are std fitment in all 1275 A series motors.
they are good bolts with no hassels with them.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 6:46 pm 
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262 Loctite is good stuff. I'd trust it before a Chinese tin locktab. :lol:
I also use it on the flywheel bolt, crank pulley bolt, on nose of crank (around key), and camshaft nut. Never had a problem. No locktabs on any of them either. :wink:

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 Post subject: thanks...
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 6:50 pm 
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minicranks wrote:
They are std fitment in all 1275 A series motors.
they are good bolts with no hassels with them.


I must have been asleep....I just have never noticed the castellations before....my main concern is that this is an important area in the A Series...with that flexy crank poorly suspended by three bearings...

The one reservation I had on the Docs excellent (as usual) advice was that himself and GR are used to building weapons that they know will be stripped down again fairly soon (or example, a racing season)...as opposed to 5-20 years for the great unwashed out there :!:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 11:31 pm 
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locktite locks tight :-)

& Jai,,,not all 1275 A series had main cap bolts, all the "S" engines have studs & nuts

ok ok,,i`m just being picky now & i`m sure you meant to say that :-)

Oh!!! & i locktite """EVERYTHING""" internal """EXCEPT""" for the flywheel bolt

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 Post subject: Copper Grease
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 11:47 pm 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
Oh!!! & i locktite """EVERYTHING""" internal """EXCEPT""" for the flywheel bolt


where you Copper Grease the sucker :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 6:31 am 
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998cc
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yeah mat being picky, if i meant to ay all A series 1275 motors, the cooper S's had studs but everyone knows that come on.
gimme a break its xmas.
by the way south african 1100 also had them. ha!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:14 pm 
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ok well i have now, fitted the head and most ancillaries and, but i am going away (today on holls for 5 day so i will not be able to finish it off till i get back, and then i wil be taking it down to GR's for a tune and set up just to mainly check the mixtures, i will also be welding up a few holes in my inner guards and the rad shroud to clean it all up and paint it so its nice again. and then i will pain the motor and stuff up and fit it back in.

so i have off till the 9th and i would love to have it all done by then.

we will see, i am so keen to drive it again.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 3:59 pm 
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ok well what a day i had at GR's last Friday.

got the complete motor to GR at 920am and we both worked on the Dyno with the help of Greig Maluire and we tuned the turbo beast to get a whopping 160hp at 7000rpm on 11psi of boost, we had a fair bit of trouble getting the fuel mixtre correct as it was rich rich rich the whole rev range but in the end we settled for a modded needle and all is great.

GR said he was very impressed with the build and the engien set up and believes the otor will get a good 180hp on 15psi with an intercooler

he also said it was one off if not the highest hp A series motors he has ever had on his dyno, so that alone is a great feeling.

motor should be back in the car by this weekend and we will then see how it drives (****** quick i think)
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Last edited by Boostedmini on Tue Jan 10, 2006 10:08 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:16 pm 
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Boosted, so that was you then I met at GR's on Friday when I walked in with the clutch thrust bearing problem! I was going to ask you what capacity is your motor.
There was a fair bit of smoke going up GR's dyno chimney while I was walking down the driveway. :)
Dino.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:16 pm 
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998cc
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thats a great result you should be happy as with that

and the fact you built it yourself great stuff 8) be carefull not to wear out your front tyres to quick though


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