Apart from the obvious age of the cars, whats the difference between a standard 1275 engine from an older round nose mini and a rover 1.3efi ... ??? Is the efi a good addition ???

AFAIK the EFI just allows the A series anchor to pass emmissions, gives idle control for the A/C and keeps the engine tune pretty good as the old nail wears out. Apart from that it isn't any better than a decent carb and electronic dizzy.

Having said that, I'm getting pretty sick of the HIF carb I've got on Mokesta, since installing the oxygen sensor and mixture meter I now know how random the mixture really is. I also never want a twin SU setup ever again after endless balancing and tweaking required on the old MG Midget.

The A+ series engines are better than the old style IMO because they have far better cooling. I've never had any overheating problems with my standard radiator and slightly worked A+ 1275 in Qld summer. Never gets hot, never loses water, hasn't had more head gaskets than oil changes. Couldn't say any of that about my old Moke's engine.

M

Where you got you oxygen sensor mounted? sure there is no air leaks in the system before it??

O2 sensor is mounted in the Y of cylinder 1-4 pipe of the LCB. Clashes with mechanical fuel pump, hence electric pump now.

No air leaks, but I may have sticky needle & seat causing float bowl level fluctuations. Mixture goes lean when cornering hard right and is also lean when standing on it after coasting. Can maybe fix latter by putting thicker oil in dashpot but former is probably due to my pump location or float bowl design on HIF carb.
M

Do you find that it goes lean sitting at lights after its warmed up a little?

Nope. Idle mixture is dead on. Just a bit all over the place when running. It used to fall away at idle but that was when I DID have a manifold gasket leak and was running the mechnical fuel pump. I've also had the alternator re-build since so now the idle doesn't drop so much when I put the lights and heater on.

If I've really been on it, there is some maifold wetting (too much enthusiasm with the die grinder, giving over-size runners and low velocities) and the idle starts off really rich then settles down.

I can't wait until I've got enough cash to finish my EFI project but with the rug rat eating all my cash it could be a while. Here is an in-progress shot from before I put the carb back on.



M

hehe thats cool. I thought it may have been a problem in the carb (bi metalic strip) but does not sound like it then.. me got no idea.. its a moke

I have an A+ 1293 in Barney with a new 2 core rad, it certainly doesn't have any better cooling than my 1360 A series... sits on middle of dial at speed, but heads towards H in traffic.
There is definitely a Minimatic heater in its future... to keep the sucker cool.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Had no problem with my A+ 998 the other day in 40+ degrees even with the air conditioning on - it sat at the same temperature range as on a normal day. I'm guessing that the thermo fan compensates for the lack of air flow whilst the car is sitting in traffic.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

Yeah that's a late one, thermo is probably good in traffic.
I'm binning this one's plastic fan too- I want another 16 blade metal one. real fan...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

EVOLUTION...
carbs were good... back in the day.
they have there place , but modern ways are turning to injection...
not just for emmisions but for more exact fuel mixture at any rev... someting a carb cannot do as efficiently.

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I love your air filter setup, has anyone done something like that with a Weber?

Jacks.