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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 8:01 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2005 6:45 pm
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Location: Townsville
engine crane??

i will definatley be needing one of these yeah? or i can invite a couple of the boys around to lift it out yeah, ya reckon 3 or 4 of us could do it ?

i am gonan go study up now on removing the engine!?

me and the boys will start it tommorow

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 9:30 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
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Location: Melbourne
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Kevin,

Don't wish to disagree with you, and may others as well, re the crankshaft thread for flywheel and crank pulley, but they are not 5/8" 16 TPI UNS. They are of Whitworth form not Unified form. They are certainly 5/8" 16 TPI but they are a special non standard Whitworth thread.

The OZ worshop manual TP832 1971 has a section, A31 on page A20, re this thread.
BMC produced a special tool, 18GAO3 Crankshaft thread tap, "to rectify slight thread damage". See page s-2 special tools section of above manual.

The difference is in the thread included angle which is 55 deg for Whitworth thread and 60 deg for unified threads. For a highly stressed thread like this I'd want to make sure the thread form is correct. One of the first things apprentice fitters learned many years ago when different thread forms, but with the same TPIs, were much more likely to be encountered was under no circumstances to mix different thread forms. It's a recipe for disaster as the holding power of mismatched thread forms is a lot less than proper mating threads.

I think this is one of those bits of misinformation which has gained a life of its own over the years. The 5/8" 16 TPI UNS thread is a standard thread in the 16 TPI constant pitch thread series, similar to constant pitch threads such as Brass threads which are all 26 TPI, although I think these are Whitworth form not Unified form.
As they are a standard but uncommon thread, taps are more readily available than a BMC odd ball, one off, Whitworth thread.

I'll get off my soap box now.

Regards
RonR


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 9:41 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Ah well Ron, you may be right- I know it's 16TPI, I'm only preaching what KC et al have quoted over the years.
If it is Whitworth form, it's the only one in the motor I know of- all the fasteners etc are American UNF or UNC.

Q... S does the clutch bolt have a radius top and bottom (if Whitworth it would) or flats (UNC/UNF/UNS 60* form). I'll check tomorrow...:)

I went thru the agony once of cleaning out this thread in my old S crank (under house 14 years) after a family of wasps made it their home.
I eventually gave up trying to buy a 5/8-16 tap, I was quoted silly money for one as they are `rare'. So I cut some flutes into an old 850 clutch bolt, sprayed WD40 in there and it did the job. :wink:
Won't work for damaged threads though.

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 Post subject: Go Dave!
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 8:56 am 
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mccabe998 wrote:
well that sounds like the only option i really have,

pulling the engine out will be time consuming! but fun!

i am thinking about putting a new 2nd hand motor into it, it is an option i have considered! i am not sure if there are any other problems with it! i guess i will soon find out lol


Its a process of elimination Dave...sure there will be other little thngs wrong but thats what you have to work through to get an old dunger on the road :shock: :lol:

Step 1 - remove floating crank engine

Step 2 - resist the urge to pull it apart and report to Ausmini what happened inside

Step 3 - instal second hand donk

Step 4 - go for long test drive/Mini fun experience

Step 5 - pull the box off the floater engine and take some pictures

Have Fun!!! :D

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Last edited by 9YaTaH on Sat Jan 14, 2006 9:07 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 9:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:12 am
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Location: Northern NSW
I agree , if you can get another running motor , stick it in and have some fun , if you have to use the same gearbox then have a good look and a good washout (diesel perhaps) to make sure there aren't any lurking bearing bits waiting to bite the new engine . Worry about the old engine and it's problem much later .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 6:14 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
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Location: Melbourne
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Kevin,
I raised this issue on the Minimania board a while back and Marcel Chicheck (not sure if thats the correct spelling) went and measured the thread angle with a thread gauge and sure enough it was 55 Deg thread included angle. The thread does have truncated crests so it is not true Whitworth form, maybe that's why people think it's a Unified thread form.

The response to this was absolutely zero. Either people didn't know, didn't care or didn't understand the consequences of mixing different thread forms. Our American cousins are a bit of a worry sometimes. It could explain why so many crank pulley bolts come undone if they use the wrong thread form for replacement bolts. Maybe it was the easy rather than the right way plus the availability of UNS taps that won the day.

The A series engine is an Austin design from the early 50's, much modified, but still a 50's design. This was a transition time for the Nuffield Austin/Morris empire so maybe old and new practises were fighting for ascendency and the Whitworth faction won on the crank threads or that's what the engine machining equipment was set up to make.

Just some thoughts
Regards
RonR


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 6:20 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
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Location: Melbourne
:shock:
Re the crank endfloat.
If it's moving up to 1 inch then it's most likely there's not much centre bearing housing left, let alone any thrust washers or the crank is now in 2 pieces. Either way the crank, block or both are now destined to be boat anchors.
No joy there I'm afraid.
Regards
RonR


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 6:30 pm 
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Ron,
Yep, I guess that crank pulley bolt thread dates back to the MM series 2, and the other end of a Mini crank has same thread.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:50 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 4:30 pm
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Location: welington new zealand
I have bought a few of these taps over the years as you can get them they retail for about $60 but i now have 2 of them. I seem to send more over seas than what i keep for myself, every crank i get i run the tap thru the end of them just to give them a clean up.
I also noticed in jan mini mag or mowl that someone corrected Kith saying that you can buy the tap out of a company in UK for under 10 quid.
check it out.

as for the end float that is not right and somehting is seriously wrong there, and you would have no oil pressure if the thrusts had gone.
pull it out and check it all rather safe than sorry.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:57 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
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Location: Melbourne
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Minicranks,
Which taps are you referring to?
The proper BMC Whitworth form tap or the 16 TPI UNS form tap?
If you can get the BMC ones for ten quid then it might be worth buying a couple.

Regards
RonR


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 5:13 pm 
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998cc
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Location: welington new zealand
the 16tpi uns ones.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:31 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
Posts: 728
Location: Melbourne
:(
Oh!
Just got the latest MiniWorld Mag and Mini Sport in the UK have the crank taps. Only problem is they want about 95 Quid for them - Plus VAT. That's about $250 Oz dollars. That seems an excessive amount for a thread tap that is only suitable for minor thread repairs.
I guess that's why the wrong but more readily available UNS tap is more appealing. The fact that is the wrong one doesn't seem to matter as long as it seems to fit!
You could have one made by an engineering works or Sutton or P&N for less than that. At that price I'd try and make one myself on the bench lathe.
( Sorry about Quid as I don't know how to find the pound symbol).

Regards
RonR


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:39 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 4:30 pm
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Location: welington new zealand
dont pay vat on export items. you pay it when its gets to your side if its over a certain amount .
like NZ is over $400 you pay GST on top of it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 11:38 pm
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Location: coffs harbour
minisp*res of england charged me vat does that mean they should not of?
then i got done when it come into aus then postage was bullshit high :evil:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:52 pm 
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Location: Queanbeyan
Yep the last time I got some stuff off them they tried to hit me VAT and it took a couple of emails to sort it out with them as they really don't like responding to emails saying hey people its for export so no VAT should be charged, postage would be fine if they would use the PO but they insist on using there private courier who are just DHL rip off inc, twice the price and half the service. :x

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