Hi ya'll :new here..from The Netherlands (upyonder or whatever) i'm on the minimania board as well

I got a RE-13 OT off KC and i would really like to see a dynoplot of a similarly specced engine as mine.. just cos mine is not up and running yet (car was too rusty for MOT..ended up cutting out 30% of the bodywork .. finished now but it's freezing and it's still waiting for paint prep.. funds low but have secured the missing parts i needed) .

i need some inspiration and a target so that i know there are not too many hidden ponies left.

my setup :
A+ 1330cc
DIY st III head small port 1.5 roller tip rockers CR 10.5
medium bore lcb + janspeed double box
MG alloy intake with Hiff44 and KC ultimate airfilter kit.

so i hope someone took on to the rollers (or at least has torque@revs and hp numbers but powercurve is more interesting)

cheers

Joost

Alles goed joost.
I do have a dyno plot for my 1380 with an RE 13 but dont know how to get it on the pc.sorry im a simple person who works on simple cars.

The RE13 is a good cam and will do well in most motors as long as the motor is in good condition, when you get a bit more funds you should look at getting a graham russel inlet manifold as he designed the cam and a manifold to suit and they do work.

let us know when you get a bit closer to finishing the motor. would be good to hear from other RE13 users form around the world.
www.minicranks.com
One of the quickest single su carbed minis in new zealand.

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www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.

I can't provide you one of similar spec, but this is a graph of my 1152cc with an RE-13 may give you an idea of the power curve, none of the runs on the sydney ausmini dyno day had the torque band though.



Jai, maybe just take a photo of it with a digital camera?, it's what i did? we all know your a capable man with that DVD camcorder of yours. Speaking of which, are we going to get to see any footage of the dyno day?

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Here's mine from same day-
1360cc, RE13, 1.5 rockers, 45DHLA carb. As said- no torque plot, bottom trace is A/F.
Was a bit lean that day, since fixed.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's a pretty flat power curve, i never realised it made more than my max power from the beggining haha..

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

It's deceptive Josh, they have used a different Y axis scale on each of our plots.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanx, all is well here ( any dutch blood?)

good show lads !

pretty flat curves, just as i had hoped

the engine is getting a full rebuild/rebore/drybuild so the condition should be no problem whatsoever

the Russel inlet is probably two zillion euro by the time it gets over here and i like SU's

but for now i'm working on other peoples heads to get some more funds.

if all goes well we will have out own personal dyno day with some friends end of march: 1310 SW5, a new 1330 with sw5 and a head i did, a 1275 MG cam with a set of quick and dirty mods, and my own as well as a Healy 3000 and a Triumph Spitfire.

dyno numbers will be a bit different. the dyno i go to puts out crank numbers (after calculations based on freewheeling in gear ( although i can get wheel HP as well). the dyno is not known for high numbers either it reads way below the others over here

even then ,the outputwill probably be quite a bit higher than the numbers you are getting . We got 90 odd horses from a SW5 1310 at the crank (more importantly it had 5-13 horses more than when in came in all over the place).

then again we are below sea level, it's not that hot and pump fuel is 98 RON over here.

Graham russell also does inlets for single SU's (not sure the model number of SU) but his car with a single SU was just a smidge above Kevin's with a Dell'orto (with 75.4). I think Graham's (which was also 1400+cc) got 79HP.
KB

G'Day Sir Yun,

<<even then ,the outputwill probably be quite a bit higher than the numbers you are getting .>>

To get crankshaft horsepower you need to add the power that is lost in the gearbox (about 40) so for Kevs peak (75.4 at the wheels) add 40 to give about 115 horsepower at the crankshaft.

Dino.

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Over 1,000,000Km, but now my retirement restoration project

I am running a 1420 with RE13 plus GR modded head with 1.75" SU and freeflow exhaust. Engine Dyno spat out 110 hp. I am told I have 79 hp at the wheels. Whatever the real story is ( as all dynos seem to be different), the reality is that with a 3.44 diff and 165/10 tyres I get tremendous pick up and have to be carefull I don't lose traction in first, second and third. The only thing I have had to do is put on an anti run on valve to stop dieseling.

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1275 LS Brisbane

But really, the only proper measure of power is an engine dyno, IMO. The only dyno variables there are the torque measurement (which can be calibrated with a 50kg standard weight) and RPM accuracy, which can be validated by periodic checking against a known accurate tachometer.

Chassis dynos/rolling roads by nature have more variability, it's very hard to compare one to another- but that is not what they are designed for. Their primary purpose is tuning under load.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Surely 40bhp transmission losses is a bit on the high side. I thought it was generally closer to the 20bhp mark for a good 'box.

Calculated flywheel horsepower is the norm over here aswell, the differences between figures from different rolling roads can be huge, up to about 20bhp variation.

Any one got torque plots to go with the power curves?

ever here engine dyno's are very rare and mostly not accessable for mere pesants ( or at least well outside of my budget).

then there is a bit of loss when you install the engine in car and all that.

i think the last time we tested, the box losses where something like 0.14HP/km/h so thati'll equate to about 21hp lost @150km/h wich seems about on par with what i have seen mentioned.

as the country is flat ( the highest point is 311 meters above sea level) as a pancake the going FD is 3.1 over here with ten inchers.

but all in all i'm really looking forward to getting the car up and running again.

the guy i build an engine ( to fit in a beautifull full resto 1976 mini 850) for, has just ordered a VW Golf GTI DSG (200hp turbo) 0-60 under 7 secs.

i don't think i will be able to keep up with that, but i shure hope i can annoy him a bit at the lights

with a bit of petrol and a semi skinny driver it will still weigh in at 1500kg so power to weight ratio will be in the same region

I would add that all tese runs we did on dyno day were taken in 3rd gear. Obviously there is more power loss than if 4th had been used- with 1:1 ratio straight thru the box.
Also, all these were road cars so are running standard helical boxes, no SCCR gearsets ot straight cut drops here.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

When you read the english mags, half of them are running straight cuts in their gearboxes for road cars - gears must be cheaper there!