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 Post subject: Trailing Arm Refurb
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:39 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 11:23 am
Posts: 581
Location: Eastern Melbourne
Anyone had their trailing arms refurbed?

One of mine is getting sloppy and I need some infor on how to proceed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:49 pm 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
Posts: 1490
Location: Armidale, NSW
Yes,

You can get a kit to refurbish them. Includes:
(May be other stuff...)
new shaft
plastic seal thingy
rubber seals
roller bearing
bush
grease nipple
nuts to go on the ends and a couple of spring washers
the caps to go on the ends of the bearings and bush.

You will need to knock out the old bush and roller bearings and the plastic shell thing(stops you filling the entire swingarm with grease when you grease the swing arm) clean it up etc put the new bearing and bush in and ream the bush to the right size (machining shop may be able to do this for you) and put it back in.

You may as well replace the nylon cups and suspension knuckle joints whilst your there :wink: bump stops and anything else that needs attension. :D

Hope this helps
I can't remember how much the kit cost :oops:

I should ask What do you mean by sloppy are you sure the movement is coming from the swing arm and it is not wheel bearings or something similar ?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:49 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I just did a couple of these arms for Cody....
Reaming the bush is not that easy, it must be reamed in line with the needle bearing at t'other end. For this U use a piloted adjustable reamer and a guide bush to fit into the other end, neatly.
Pilot diameter on this one is 16mm. The finished reamed bush bore is 13/16" (0.81325")the shaft should just slide in, no slop.
No I don't own this reamer etc, my mate up the road does.:)

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 Post subject: ok ok
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:11 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 11:23 am
Posts: 581
Location: Eastern Melbourne
seems like the expense of the tools can be overcome by taking it to a workshop. Anyideas how much the going rate is?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:22 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Joined: Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:46 am
Posts: 18887
Location: Under the bonnet son!
Don't do what I did and forget to slide in the nylon grease retaining tube before pushing the needle roller home. Once that's done it's there for good unless you fork out for more needle rollers.

Oh woe is me...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:52 am 
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The TIG
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Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 4:28 pm
Posts: 860
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Just did mine last week. It cost me $22CDN per side for the rebuilt kit plus $20CDN per side to have a machine shop ream out the bushings. It took less than an hour to take apart both sides and less than an hour to throw them back in. It can take a bit of time getting the old bushes out and cleaning and painting everything though. But overall a pretty simple job. I also did a complete rear brake overhaul including some braided stainless brake lines.
Another thing to consider doing, which I did on my other Mini, is to not use the needle bearing in the one side and have another bushing machined up. It costs a bit more but if it's properly lubed it will last much longer.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 5:46 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Hmmm... the very first Minis in UK had 2x bushes, but the needle bearing then replaced the inner bush, to take the extra thrust from the suspension strut/rubber cone.
I suspect running 2 bushes you would need to lube it more often so the inner bush doesn't seize on the shaft.

Most bush/shaft wear problems I have seen come down to lack of lube- people forget to do it or just don't know there are nipples there.

All the big wheel Mokes here in Oz got 2x needle bearings, and NO bush.
I'm not aware of any problems, and they are easier to overhaul- no friggin' bush to ream.:)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 7:17 am 
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The TIG
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
The reason that I replaced the needle bearing with a bush is that some of the old school british car guys that used to race Minis recommended it. The reason being that the suspension does not travel very far especially if you are mostly smooth roads. So the needle bearings travel very little and were little divots in the axle where they constantly ride because they are only touching in a very small surface area. The bush contacts the full surface area of the outer diameter of the axle. These old school guys said if you lube it up regularly you never have to redo them again. And every Mini that I have taken apart is worn just like they said. It made sense to me. But I guess time will tell.

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