okay so here is the situation

I've bled the clutch twice (to a point where I believe it has been done propperly)

When the engine isnt running, it is possible to move the gear stick into all 5 gears with ease..but as soon as you start up the engine, it is impossible to selevt a gear.

If you start it in gear with the clutch in - the clutch isnt functioning

So what should I check/do to get this working?

All 5 gears??? What engine/box you have in it?
EDIT: You mean 4 plus reverse ... dont you

Peter.

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yes..obviously. i knew some smart-ass was going to say that when i wrote it

Have you adjusted the stop on the clutch housing?

Also if you have play in the various pins, etc. you may not get enough throw on the slave cylinder to disengage the clutch. Try this to test it:

Remove the pin from the slave cylinder, pull the clutch arm out by hand & put the pin back in the end of the slave cylinder so that the arm is resting against the pin i.e. not through the hole where it's supposed to go.
Try the clutch again a few times. If this much extra makes it work, you can probably fix it by fitting new pins in place of the worn ones.
I had to extend the slave cylinder clevis too.

Good luck!

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Too many cars, and too little time.

what does that mean? does the car try to move fowards it you try to start it in gear with the clutch pedal pushed in?

get someone to look at the slave cylinder while you're pushing the pedal - is it actually doing something?

when was the clutch last working? - was this engine that went in the water and was working OK, or is it another one

if the clutch is always engaged - IE the engine is always driving the gearbox, then just screw the 7/16 bolt on the flywheel cover out - maybe 1/4 of an inch, and see how it goes, if the clutch will then disengage, screw it back in until the pedal feels right.... I like to have about 1/4 - to 1/2" of slack at the top of the pedal, and the clutch start to engage about 3/4" of an inch from the floor

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

just screw the stop in between the clutch arm out till the pedal feels good or clutch starts working easy

Yea the car tries to move forwards.



yes the slave cylinder looks like it is functioning properly.



Yea it was the one that went into the water and was working fine before and after




The clutch does feel pretty good though and it is pushing the slave cylinder

Sounds like clutch is not dis-engaging . Check to see if slave cylinder is operating . If its working ok , try adjusting your operating lever free movement and clutch throw out stop . Any Mini manual explains how to do these 2 adjustments , which are the only adjustments you can do on a mini clutch . If you have to start lengthening or bending things you have a problem .

EdIt ...Try backing off the clutch throw out stop , thats the shouldered nut in middle of housing , then see if it dis-engages .

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1965 Morris 850
1966 Morris Mini Minor
1967 Morris Cooper 'S'
1977 Leyland LS

Aussie

Is this the motor from the car you had the slight mishap with and if it is did you pull it down before you fitted to the car if not it may be that the clutch plate has rusted to the flywheel. if that is the case start it and warm it up and then stop it put into first gear and with your foot on the clutch and drive it about and keep using the brakes to try and get the clutch to let go

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

yeah, but the clutch pedal isn't pushing far enough, or the clutch plate has rusted to the primary gear and isn't sliding... adjust that stop bolt out and see how it goes - but it's been sitting a while now, there could be something really yukky in there....

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I know this may not be a fix to this exact problem, but I fitted an Xa Xb falcon slave cylinder to mine. It has a heap more travel than the mini one and requires no mods to fit.

It makes it a heap easier to adjust, and you can get more thrust without the problem of the slave hitting the circlip.

The other problem I had was the ball snapping off the end of the clutch arm. (I know I'm not using the right part names - sue me!! ) Just pull the clutch arm out and inspect it. Even if it looks alright at first glance, clean it up and inspect it very thoroughly. Mine just had what looked like a hairline crack in it which only actually opened up under pedal pressure. I had much the same symptoms you're experiencing.

Have Fun.

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Bob Slattery
Duffman Says A Lot of Things - OH YEAH!!

Just to add my two bobs worth, most avenues seem to have been covered and if all have been followed and there is still a problem then I fear it is a real problem that will necessitate removal of and dismantling the motor. It is a problem that I have experienced and have done all the things previously mentioned. What the problem turned out to be was that the crank thrust washer wore out real quick and all that happens when the clutch is disengaged is that the crank is pushed further towards the radiator and will not let the clutch disengage properly. Some of the remedies quoted are downright foolish. Follow the manual and ensure that your end float is within specifications, all the various components are in good working order, system has been bled properly and the clutch should be fine first up.

as much as i hate to say it, i recon the clutch plate has rusted to the flywheel

Get one of your mates to follow Feralsprint's directions for breaking the rust bond

You won't do it, as you'll be too gentle - it's your car.
If you're sure that's the problem, then give it herbs! It's fun

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Too many cars, and too little time.

whoa. that sucks dude. best of luck fixing it