Now that the warmer weather is approaching, I am a little bit worried about my mini overheating.

It may just be that the temperature gauge is out, but it runs at quite a high temp. I know my radiator has at least 1 core blocked because I put a screw through it and had to patch it .

I also have one of the metal bazillion bladed fans.

Karcraft has 3 radiators, a 4 core, a 2 core and a standard one. Given that it gets to 40+ degrees here and I have to drive to work, is it worth spending extra money for the 4 or 2 core radiator, and if so which one for a dry climate?

Also, I've heard the best fan in terms of noise/airflow is the 6 bladed tropical fan. I haven't seen these around at all, Karcraft doesn't stock them. How good is the standard plastic jobby?

Thanks for any advice anyone has!

it depends on the size of your motor and what has been done
tp it, if it is a standard 998 or 1100 it should be good with a
2 core a 1275 will run hotter wiht a standard radiator. sitting
in traffic will always make a mini cranky. just make sure
the radiator is in good nick. have you thought about a
thermo fan??

I'd get a 2 core these days, if you are buying a new rad.
But my 1310 (115HP at crank, approx) gets by with a stocko Mini 3 core and a MiniMatic heater..
Never overheats, sitting in traffic or on the freeway.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

if you dont have a heater grab the element out of a clubby one and plump it into your cooling system, i've seen this done, and it does make a difference. in essence its kinda of like a mini matic fresh air heater (althought the element/core sizes are different).

apparently the twin blade fan moves a lot of air around but are loud?

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'68 Morris Mini Matic (GF's)- complete!
'68 Morris Mini Deluxe - deciding on specs..
'63 Morris 850 - On the Shelf
Other various mini parts cars

4 blade moves more than a 2 but is even louder..

I'll keep my 16 blade metal one thanks- it works OK and doesn't chuck blades off, like our Clubbie plastic one did..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'd definitely be goin for the 2 core if its only gonna be driven on bitumen, or a 4 core, if you'll be fanging it on dirt.

The 2 core radiators run a very similar design to motorbike radiators, and they've got them down to a fine art now. Have a look at a Honda Goldwing radiator if ya get a chance. When I can afford one It'll be goin in my clubby.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

don't bother with a radiator upgrade, give it a flush in car and stick a 10" thermo fan on the other side of the guard. Supercheap have them for less than a 100, stick a relay and a switch in the car, turn it on when your car gets hot. Spending 200-300 on a new radiator won't neccesarily solve overheating, a thermo fan will increase the air going thru it when your stopped and that is when you will be overheating more often than not.
Both mine have thermo's and never overheat.

Cheers

Aaron

Mine tends to get warmer as I'm driving. The higher the RPM, the warmer it is. Once I stop it settles down, certainly doesn't rise when stationary.

Do people use coolant or water in their minis?

i always use coolant peace of mind to have thet slightly higher boiling point

Don't use water, use coolant.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Gets nice and warm up here in Cairns to, 100% humidity sometimes!!!!! My 1330cc uses a fresh unblocked 3 core, with a 6 blade metal fan, and yes its a little noisey. Cant remember the thermostat temp. It seems to be ok temp wise. Gets a little warm if stuck in traffic sometimes. And yes a thermo would be nice. But dont you have to cut out the inner wheel arch to avoid it fouling on the shock????

There is the odd occasion that I wont drive on a really hot day, but is mainly due to sweating my ass off in me Sparcos!!! God they are a hot seat. Rather drive the Air Con Crappadore.

Interesting Topic.....coming into Summer....
morris runs a Two Core Special from Krcraft and never had two much problems with it....yer It does get a little hot in trafic...but nothign to worry about in ADL... Morris is 1100++ and is a daily drive..so I recomend the 2 Core...

What thermo stat are you running as it does have some impact...If you can raise it up a little during the summer month's so it opens earlier.....
I know thier will be other's that differ from me...
Thermo's on a switch...Incar heaterBetter Option.... but still forces heat into Engine bay
But i'v have not had a major problem..with the 2 Core Special..

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Davies Craig Thermo fan. Cost prolly $120 and comes with a sensor that you plum into the system. Can set it to whatever temperature you want it to come on and then obviously shuts off once temp drops below setting. F*&^%#g loud as though.

Installation did not require any mods to inner/outer wing.

If you are worried about it forcing air into the engine bay, reverse the polarity. Sucks like a Whitehouse Inturn.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

I had cooling problems with the standard Mini rad after I fitted the 1132cc engine a couple of years ago. I fitted a clubman heater matrix behind the grille. Now it gets hot on high 30s days, but it does not boil.

I'm fitting a reco gerabox this weekend, and a reco Morris 1100S radiator while I have the engine out. I've decided to fit my air con kit to my van, so I have to get rid of the extra heater matrix to allow room for the air con condenser. It will be interesting to see how much better the cooling is with the bigger rad.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

a well serviced cooling system should never overheat in traffic.. my mini hits 82 degrees in about 5 minutes and then doesnt budge.. i have a standard 2 core with placcy fan.. new thermostat and no heater

give the whole system a flush (just get a drive around for 20min with it in type flush) and then dump the coolant and fill it up with a good quality coolant

coolants dont actually cool any better than water. they take longer to boil (but if your car is at 100 your in trouble anyway) plus water boils higher than 100 when under pressure.. the most important part of the coolant is the anticorrosive thats in it. stops lil bits of radiator falling off inside and blocking the bugger.. if in doubt take the radiator to a radiator specialist and get them to flush it and check it for blocks (about a 40 dollar job)

if its not leaking its servicable most of the time.. but if it concerns you get it checked... that radiator hasnt toasted your car yet.. whats makes this summer any different

other option is run a slightly cooler thermostat in it (bout 10 degrees) so that your car has that little bit extra breathing room on a hot day

ie most days your cars runs at 70 degrees instead of 80 (dont worry your car wont mind)

but like i said earlier.. dont waste your money with a new radiator unless you have flushed your current system and your cars gets hot..
then you get the radiator professionally cleaned and install a new thermostat

then if it still gets hot.. get a radiator then

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Expert in training