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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:10 am 
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you'll find you can get them blank/undrilled and take them to a big wheel shop and they should hook you up with some holes for the mini's unusual PCD. if someone told you they cant it's because their too slack to get them drilled. Make sure they are using a precision drilling machine otherwise I would try the next joint.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:03 pm 
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Mini Mad wrote:
Volk wont do them in a 4x101.6mm PCD i believe only 4x100?


Correct Minimad,

Thats why on the next one, I will be changing all the stud patterns to PCD 100mm

It just makes wheel choice so much easier.

Cheers,
Tricky

P.S Must be close to update time!!?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:10 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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Haha fair enough, i looked into them, but i'm happy with my RSW rims...just waiting...waiting

Next update will be big, but you'll have to wait :P

Can't wait until we get a few of these beasties on the road together next year 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:21 pm 
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Chapter 11 - The Boot

Now that we have done the front part of the car, its time to turn our attention to the rear. The boot when I recieved the car was in a real sorry state. If I had put a battery in the battery box, and driven down the road, the first bump I came to would have seen the battery punch through and be dragged along the road - thats how rusty it was.

Same for the spare wheel well - I could have pushed the whole bottom of the boot space out with my hand. The only thing that was keeping it together was the paint!! So, after sepending some time on the thinking stool, staring at the boot, I came up with a list of all the stuff that had to go in the boot, and this then allowed me to master-plan the whole boot space.

Firstly, I came up with the list of stuff that was to go in there:
1. Fuel tank
2. Surge tank
3. Windscreen washer bottle
4. IC spray bottle
5. Fuel pump (two in this case)
6. Fuel filter
7. Carbon canister (a strong recommendation by the engineer)
8. Spare wheel
9. Jack

Okay, how to fit all of the above in. It took some time on the thinking stool, but this is what I came up with:
Image

The rear strut brace is plainly visible in the pic. What is it and what does it do?? Strut braces traditionally go from one shock tower to the other, and help transfer lateral loads across both towers, which in effect stiffens the chassis and therefore aids in handling. My strut brace had a dual role, it carried the spare tyre as well (its illegal in QLD to drive without a spare in good roadworthy condition)

The first task I attempted was to do the rear strut brace anchor points. The rear strut brace went from one tower to the other and held the spare wheel as well, with the jack perched on top. To begin with, I started making the end-pieces. they were made out of 6mm plate, cut and bent and shaped to the shape of the rear shock tower. This took me for ages to do, as there were compound curves involved. But they came out OK, and with some paint will look great! They are held on with 3 x 8mm bolts in a triangular arrangement.
Right side:
Image

Left side:
Image

The actual brace was made out of 25mm thick wall pipe (2.1mm). I grabbed a length of the pipe from the local metal merchant, and then hired a hydraulic pipe bender for the day from Kennards. What i didnt realise was that, for the price of renting one for a weekend, I could have bought one off eBay. Oh well, live and learn.

The pipe stock came in 6.5m lengths:
Image

Then, after two days of cutting, welding sizing, and more welding and cutting, I finally had the end result. The 13x7 Dunlop fits in the space nice and snug, with enough room for the drop tank underneath and the jack on top.
This is what it looked like out of the car - once again, bends in two planes:
Image

And this is what it looks like in situ - because of the depth between the spars, it is very light, but immensely strong. Should do the job in spades!!
Image

Image

The next thing to do was install the rear subframe, after I removed it and measure exactly where the cutout for the drop tank was supposed to go. I decided to kill two birds with one stone, and get the rear subframe sandblasted, and then painted.
So off it went to the sandblasters, and this is how it returned:
Image

And then after I painted it with 2-pac satin black:
Image

And this is it just ready to be installed. Note new nolathane bushes all round:
Image

The area to be cut out was marked, and then the entire rear subframe assembly removed. Then it was a simple case of out with the grinder. I must admit, after I had cut out the entire boot floor, I wondered just what I had got myself in for!
Image

At least there was no more rust remaining!!
Image

The next step was to weld in the new floor. I decided the easiest way to do this was to cut out the actual protrusion for the tank while the 1.2mm sheet was on the work bench, than fight over it later once it was in. So, the area was cut out, and the new floor then cut to size. The side wings had to be profiled to the contours of the mini floor (what remained of it), This was achieved by tacking the new floor in place where it sat flush, then bending it down and tacking it as I went along. The end result was awesome - a new floor with a cutout for the tank, and stronger and more functional than before.

The new boot floor in place:
Image

Image

Now to make the box that would contain the tank. Basically that was all it was, a box. So I cut out a piece of 1.2mm sheet in the shape of a box, unfolded that is. This is what it looked like unfolded. Pretty simple stuff when you think about it.
Image

Then the box was bent up using a pan-brake that a mate (Tony who owns the aqua-coloured mini ''Barbie'') had in his workshop. Once all the sides were bent in together, it was a simple case of welding them all together. I also put a criss-cross crease (say that three times fast!!) in the bottom of the box, so any water or fuel that was spilt in the boot had somewhere to drain to - the exact centre of the box. A small 5mm hole was drilled in this location as a drain hole:
Image

Image

Then it was a simple case of inserting the box into the cutout, getting the whole thing square and the right height,and welding it in. Once it was all welded in, the protruding parts of the box were cut off and everything ground to remove any dags:
Image

Now that the boot space for the alloy tank was complete, it was time to draw up the alloy tank for the space provided. I knew that the tank would hold roughly 45litres, so it was easily big enough for a 400-500km cruise. The drawing was sent to a mate Damian at his company, Everything Metal to fabricate, and this was the end result - beautiful:
Image

Twin filler entries:
Image

And this is it in the space - the perfect fit. there was literally 5mm all the way round the tank, just right:
Image

This is what gets the fuel out fo the tank - its a std Aussie 4EFE starlet fuel pickup pump, with integral filter and level sender unit. Cost me $65 from the wreckers, and suits the low profile of the tank to a tee. Of course, I bought this first and designed the height of the tank to suit the unit. You can see it sitting in situ in the photos above:
Image

Next in Chapter 12 - We finish off the boot space and say 'no more' to confined spaces!!

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:33 pm 
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you're bloody amazing Andy..... it's so cool how you make stuff and it fits straight away....

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:11 pm 
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It all looks rather slap dash to me... don't think it will work. :wink:

Nah seriously, looks great.

How much heavier was the new boot floor vs the old?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:21 pm 
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Zizzle wrote:
It all looks rather slap dash to me... don't think it will work. :wink:

Nah seriously, looks great.

How much heavier was the new boot floor vs the old?


it's probably lighter than the original one.... or so close to the same it wouldn't make any difference - my guess anyway :)

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 11:50 pm 
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Another informative chapter,
Awsome strut brace thinking it looks kinda like Rally Style
:D


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 3:08 pm 
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Zizzle wrote:
It all looks rather slap dash to me... don't think it will work. :wink:

Nah seriously, looks great.

How much heavier was the new boot floor vs the old?


Can see where you're coming from. No way fuel tank would weigh more than 2 mini tanks (its aluminium). Boot floor would have to be much lighter (it is only very thin metal). Having said all that if you have a little more weight (that is inredibly well centred) you can always add a few extra HP, which Tricky is doing in spades.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 8:02 pm 
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You blokes are too serious. Probably should have used more smilies. I was referring to the "speed holes" caused by rust on the old boot floor. I bet the old rusty floor would have been much ligher. :wink: :D :o

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 8:22 pm 
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Zizzle wrote:
You blokes are too serious. Probably should have used more smilies. I was referring to the "speed holes" caused by rust on the old boot floor. I bet the old rusty floor would have been much ligher. :wink: :D :o


lol.... I did consider that might've been what you meant after I replied, but never mind.... :D

I was too busy trying to fathom how plan my conversion out as well as Andy has done.... talk about trees falling in the woods...

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 7:47 pm 
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skssgn wrote:
Zizzle wrote:
You blokes are too serious. Probably should have used more smilies. I was referring to the "speed holes" caused by rust on the old boot floor. I bet the old rusty floor would have been much ligher. :wink: :D :o


lol.... I did consider that might've been what you meant after I replied, but never mind.... :D

I was too busy trying to fathom how plan my conversion out as well as Andy has done.... talk about trees falling in the woods...



GO SIMON, GO!!!!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 11:17 am 
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where the battery going to sit?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 11:20 am 
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1970 mini K wrote:
where the battery going to sit?


he's gonna put in a plastic bag and hang it off the boot lid handle ;)

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 11:24 am 
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From another thread....

Archangel007 wrote:
The batteries (there will be two) are Odyssey brand fully sealed gel cells and they will go in the bins next to the rear seats with lids on them.

One battery will just be for starting the engine, the other will be for powering the accesories etc, and they will be bridged when the engine is running by a solenoid so they both get charged.

Once the engine is off, they are isolated so the engine start battery will never get drained.

Regards,
Tricky

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