Has anyone ever used or heard of any of the above products.

Have some pretty good claims:
taken from http://www.ppc.au.com/
► Easy to use requires no effort even on heavy rust
► Doesn't require constant attention - frees up valuable man hours
► Economical in use - concentrated powder dissolves up to 1 part in 19 parts of tap water to produce a powerful solution that can be reused
► Harmless non-toxic and biodegradable
► Produces a microscopically clean bare metal finish (even better than a blast cleaned surface)
► Does not destroy or distort delicate steel
► Harmless to glass, plastics, aluminium and chrome
► Gets into every flaw and crevice - the only way to get intricate parts totally clean
► Works on internal surfaces of hollow objects and structures
► Eliminates grit embedment - a recognised problem with blast cleaning that causes premature coating failure and destruction of engine parts upon reassembly
► Frees rust frozen parts, without the need for heat - will not anneal heat-treated components
► Based on renewable resources

So basically you drop something rusted to kingdom come into a container of this stuff mixed with water and in 24hours it comes out with no rust looking as clean as a whistle. Supposably better than blasting or using wire wheel etc

Also you can get it in a gel so you can use on bigger stuff too (there is a minimum metal thickness though) - looks pretty good, if it works on sheet metal may buy some and see if it works on my shell - doubt it will put back the metal that the rust has already eaten though

For more info have a look at the site above, there is a link on it with more info etc etc

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that crap looks awsome !!

As a little experiment find the rustiest small part you can get and stick it in a cup of vinegar overnight.

dont know about that one mate... In my profesional opinion (panel beater) if its rusty and you simply coat it with something it will *WILL* come back. If its surface rust it can be treated, however you must remove all of it. I use this stuff called metal conditioner from DUPONT PAINTS its easy to use and it even shows you if you have done it right by changing the colour of the metal to blue if clean and yellow if there is still rust. If it cant be treated with metal conditioner and all rust removed, you must cut out the afected metal and plate it... Just my opinion

Mike

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If it cant be fixed with a hammer it cant be FIXED!!

Don't know if it's available in Australia, but Evaporust is sold in NZ on Trade Me. It's a solution you soak parts in overnight and they come up amazing - the rust just falls away and leaves a bare metal finish. You then pour the solution back into the bottle. When the solution eventually goes black, throw it away (biodegradable) and buy some more. It is a fantastic product which really works. I just haven't found a feasible way of getting the whole mini into a bath to soak yet

And I have no connection with the distributor or manufacturer other than buying and trying the product. Thyis is one product which really works.

Incidentally, Deox-C is also highly regarded and made in the UK by Bilt Hamber. Seems like a good product too, but can't be bothered importing it specially.

Or you could always try electrolysis rust removal, works very well, and cheap to make.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
This is only good for smaller rusted parts, as It would be expensive to make a rotisery type dipping pool for a complete body..

Mike.. you heard of Killrust? Its cheap and does the same job as the metal conditioner.
I think its made by wattyl paints, it smells like squashed ants. When aplied, it eats away at the rust and turns it into a carbon steel which will not allow the rust to come back in the prepared surface. Not saying that it won't come back from the other side of the panel though. So long as the opposite side is sound and no rot, then killrust will work very well. IMO I would cut out any cancer and weld in new sections as you have seen in my previous posts with Ed. The advantage of any surface prep rust killer, is that it will make a good key surface for primer and paint. One that I would be wary of is por15, do some research on it and you will soon see the good the bad and the ugly. For me, I don't touch it.

..... and molasis works well too! Check out what the guy did with molasis and a WHOLE '36 ute here
http://www.ozrodders.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=6225&start=15&sid=e226c5431aa9b4a2c6c3d3edbec2f8b7

Also comes in handy if you get a bit peckish while in the garage too.
Bundy drinkers may be ideologically opposed to this method tho