hello, I have a 1100cc with a modified head, 1 1/2 su carburetor and extractors. I am looking toward buying a new camshaft. People have suggested I should buy a RE13 cam which is quite torquey and performs well in most of the rev range.



I'm unsure whether it is worth the hassle to take my motor and do this, or leave the standard in. Some feed back on this cam and the performance increases i will gain would be helpfull.

cheers,

There's been a lot of talk on here about RE13's but usually buried in other posts. Try a search and surf about for a while....

The bottom line is that a lot of ausmini users (myself included) have put an RE13 into everything from 998 - 1430whatevers. The overwhelming majority say it's great and a worthwhile improvement. The odd one or two may have had a preference for another cam or not liked it.

Myself was a RE13 into a 1293cc about 12-18 months ago. I did the pulsar dizzy at about the same time, and those two combined made the car much more enjoyable and driveable. It was a bit of pig in traffic previously.

Have you been following the small bore build article in the mini experience magazine? some good tips in there for you.
KB

I should add that work to build a stage 1 or 2 worked head and extractors normally includes a mild cam to get the best of your head mods - that should tell you something, No?

It is possible to change the cam in a 998/1098 without removing the motor.
It involves cutting one of the slats in the LH inner guard and bending it up, to get the cam out.
Afterwards just bend it back down into place and tack weld it if wanted.

Do a search, the topic has been covered before.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Whats the price on these cams?

Russell Engineering does a regrind on YOUR cam, they are not sold outright.
Unless you want to pay him extra $$$ for a new billet....

Cost to grind yours is ~$130 I think, + postage ($10 in an express post satchel).
Ring Graham and check. (02) 9630 2195.

<edit> tell him what size motor you have, there are subtle differences between his smallbore and bigbore grinds.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for that doc... Will give him a holler and see what he can do for me, I'll change over to duplex at the same time. Should liven the 998 up nicely, have ported the head, and done the chambers, and fitted an LCB. At this stage it should be a good little runner.

It should go great

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Call Graham and tell him your purpose, he does have other cam grinds that may well suit your purpose better. I for one have been talked out of the RE13 for my mini, and that was Graham that did the talking. So ring him, and he will give you your options

Cheers
Aaron

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IMO the RE-13 is more suited to a big bore where there is still enough torque low down in the rev range and this makes it more streetable than a small bore. I personally dont have much of an issue with its low rpm performance ( I expected it to be more cammy than it was)in my 1330 because it makes up for it with its midrange and top end.
In the end it depends on how you use your car, if you are commuting daily in traffic pick another cam but for a weekend splat or a non purposeful drive the RE-13 is the choice.

how long does it usually take to get the cam re-ground??
say i sent it to Graham on a monday would i get it back that week? providing aust post is on the ball

dont want it to be off the road to long....

and to fit the new cam is it just a matter of taking the head off, take out the old cam and slip in the new one and put the head back on??

cheers James

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'75 windowless van
~LOLA~

No...

You have to undo the rocker posts, take the rockers off. Slip each of the pushrods out of the head. Undo your side tappet covers (if you have any, if you don't it's an engine out job) and take out each one of the 8 cam followers. Then you can take off the timing cover, timing chain sprockets and cam thrust washer and cam.

If changing to a new cam, you need buy a new set of cam followers as your old ones have bedded into the profile of your existing cam.

When installing the cam, it really should be done with a degree wheel and the cam timed in properly, incorrect timing by 3-4degrees can cost you the gain in hp that a new cam can give you so there is no point really of installing a cam if not properly timed in as you will recieve 0 overall gain. It is not a matter of taking a cam out and putting it back in, timing in requires exact measurements and changing of the cam key to an offset cam key to make up for incorrect timing chain links.

Bottom line, this is why I did not change my cam on the 1152 to an RE13 or the like as it really should be done with engine out of the car as you also need to check valve timing with the rockers as well...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

no, graham russell is a very busy man, i've been waiting months for mine

An alternative to buying new followers is to have the old ones refaced provided they're not pitted.

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Cheers,
Rod.
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'63 Morris 850 (Old Secondhand CAR)

I rang GR on the Thursday afternoon before MDU and picked the cam up on the Sunday at MDU, great service from the man

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Have you followed up with him that he got your cam and it was suitable to be reworked ?

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