This is how I found the Master Cylinders; I have seen them on other cars with the fillers to the front - what is correct?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

which ever way fit

i bought new master cyliners (plastic) but the only way they would fit is if the clutch master was facing the rear

Which way do the master cylinders face? Cap up.

Your photo is correct.

What he said...^^^

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah thats the way mine face, but wouldnt it be easier if they faced the front, and the pipes went down the back?!?!?!

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78 Leyland Mini - Prince

I only asked because of these in another tread and I'm going to put the same extensions on and thought it would be easier to fill with them at the front

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

The ertemtions are exactly that...If i have this rite they were used during raceing so you had that extra bit of fluid fopr the brakes and clutch. They do also give you that much more when bleeding the brakes and 180 Degres around with the caps to the front make it easier when topping both up

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Pretty sure they should only go on one way as the clutch and brake master cylinders are different. Something about the brake master having a return spring and the clutch not. Calver has an article on this if I remember correctly. So caps should be at the back pipes at the front.

Both my cylinders are completely dismantled at the moment and the bodies are identical - so I can reassemble them to suit the orientation. If you do a straight 180 rotation they won't fit - you have to swap the positions as well.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

yep, I reckon that is correct, but I guess a question of how "original" you want your car to look (vs practicality).
I'm pretty sure BMC would have designed it to make the M/c's hard to top up so that the fluid ended up wrecking the paintwork because they never came from the factory with the extensions

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

The brake MC has a non-return valve fitted on top of the internal spring.

The extensions were fitted to Monte rally cars to keep adequate level while pads wore down, I don't think they fitted to clutch MC but could be wrong.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

I thought the bigger capacity m/c (brake cf. clutch) on the S solved the pad wear problem, but maybe they were introduced on later models Strange that this feature did not carry thru to the OZ Mk 2 with the plastic jobs. Anyone have any clues?

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

I cant see why you wouldnt be able to turn the cylinders around to have the cap closer to the front - I did that with my brake MC - you just let the brake lines run over and next to the filler caps. . But - and I did ask this in the original post re the extensions - arent the MCs in the second pic (with the extensions) in the wrong places alltogether (ie Brakes instead of Clutch and vise versa) ???
coz I'm pretty sure that if you turn the Mcs around and they are in their orginal positions you'll have the filler caps on the inside and the line outlets on the outside.

some m/c are 0.75" bore and some are 0.7" bore. check your manual before swapping anything over and make sure you measure it to have the correct one on the clutch and on the brake. it can make a lot of difference on the pedal effort, and if you stick a brake one on the clutch with the non return valve, your clutch may not engage correctly.

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Clutch M/C should be 0.75" bore, a .70" (brake one) doesn't move enough fluid, causing clutch drag and dodgy adjustability.
I know this as I've bought several cars that had em on....

Your brake M/C should be 0.70" bore for most everything with twin leading shoe drums, or discs.
If you use a 0.75" pedal effort will be too high- unless running a servo.
Even the Cooper S ran a 0.70".

So, I wouldn't swap `em, for these 2 reasons.
With the plastic extensions it makes no difference, it's easy to top up.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.