I keep hearing about the Metro Turbo Brake Setup, apparently it needs some modifications to fit the mini. Just got a couple of questions.

1. What modifications are needed to fit it to my mini.
2. Is this option a relatively cheap brake solution?
3. How is the brake performance compared to other setups?

(1)--> The ball joints need to be Mk1 metro, & duel brake hose mods to suit the single on the mini..

(2)---> yes relatively cheap concidering their performance compared to other disc brakes, but 12 or 13" wheels will need to be fitted so that often cancells out much of the "cheapness"

(3)---> Yes , much better braking ability/performance,,, but the added weight detracts from the suspension response & over all recipricating weight affecting accelleration.

& you`d probably want to fit a full set of adjustable control arms to get the wheel alignment sorted.

My thoughts---> Too big,,, Too heavy,,, Too much mucking around,,, Too much money & time to bother,,, i`d rather just stick some cooper "S" discs on with quallity pads & keep it on 10 inch wheels,,, but that`s just me.

would be ok if you had a rocket ship turbo or supercharged set up with big grunt & needed the extra stopping power & the big foot print (tyres) for the grip factor, but the suspension suffers with all that weight.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

*hugs matt*

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I've just been in the garage with some scales.
There's not much difference actually. Maybe a poofteenth of a kilo tops.
The assembled metro caliper (that's pistons, seals and pads) is 300 grams lighter than
the stock 8.4 caliper in the same state of assembly.
The metro rotor however, weighs 300 grams more.
Drive flanges are very similar to each other as well.

all that x2 + wheels x4

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Thanks guys for the quick response. I'm doing a turbo suzuki conversion on 13's so i wanted some pretty good (and cheap) stopping power. So basically i use everything metro? hubs, flanges, calipers, bearings, rotors and then make some sort of joiner hose for the dual brake mod. Is there anything mini in there? I heard there was an issue using all metro when it came to steering geometry?

You will definately need these to correct the geometry, but they are not that expensive.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

If you can get your mits on a pair of mini disc hubs, use them. Then steering and suspension geometry correction parts won't be needed.
You will also use mini CVs and driveshafts (well, maybe not exactly in your application!)
Get tapered roller bearings too.

if interested in a set we are clearing out some cheap ones for rebuilding,look on ebay under mini metro brakes
cheers

So I use...

Hubs - Mini Disc or Metro, If Metro i need to get adjustable suspension(control arms)
Flanges - Mini or Metro
Rotors - Metro
Calipers - Metro
Bearings - Mini or Metro, depending on which hub i use? or are they all the same

And i need to make up dual hose connection for the metro calipers.

Is there anything else i need?

Oh also, does it matter what disc hub i use? Is there any difference between the hubs on the 8.4's and the 7's. What size brakes were on the 90's minis?

The flanges you use depends if you use vented or non vented discs. The vented disc flanges will give you 1/2 inch extra track widthe per side.

M

Is it possible to use the non vented flange with a vented rotor to keep the track width as small as possible. Is the non vented flange strong enough? I wouldn't see why not, as long as the shaft thickness is the same.

A vented disc is wider than a solid one by almost a 1/2 inch.
Use the metro drive flange, as the mounting bolts are a different size.
You may also want to get the castelated locator machined off it too.