I want to get ALL the bolts from my GT plated.

I think Doogie once told me you can get a bucket of bolts plated quite cheaply.

Is it CAD plate that gives that clean dull yellow-ish finish to bolts?

Anyone in Sydney had this done? If so, how much?

Thanks.

Not in sydney but...

I had this done, a whole bucket full of bolts, nuts, washers, springs, brackets, door bits, you name it it was in the bucket. Cost me 30 dollars on an off peak deal. You would pay someone to do that just for the grease removal alone I reckon. The bolts are brand new and look it.

The gold colour you are referring to is still zinc plating, a small amount of copper is added to the zinc to create this colour. For your small amount of money, they will dip the entire lot in acid to remove grease, oil dirt and old rust and coatings and then zinc plate. Takes about a day. Ask them to please please not lose any screws, they sometimes can fall through the sieves they lower them into the bath in. Nylocs will surviv the process just fine.

Not recommended for hi tensile engine bolts use as apparently they can lose their tensile strength a little. I did have the general engine bolts and nuts done and had no problems when I did use them. Springs thrown into the bucket will need to be fished out after and roasted in the oven with the sunday lamb for an hour or so at 200 to normalise the spring.


CAD plating has fallen a little out of favour because of the cadmium involved is rather nasty testicular tissue destruction, renal failure etc

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yes you'll find that most places will Zinc plate your bits.

As Mick said - count EVERYTHING that you send away!

will the zinc plate 'break off' when you turn a ring spanner tightly on a bolt head?

I have seen this happen with chrome and nickel plate.

No it rubs off over time slowly if you keep doing it up and undoing it, depending on the application thickness. No difference to original.

Looks absolutely amazing and is the small part of the job that brings a huge amount of satisfaction.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

it is nickel plating not zinc that gives the goldy colour

and cadmium is only a problem if you sand, grind, cut or burn it and breathe the dust or fumes. its carcenogenic....

cheers
michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Actually to get technical, the gold colour on zinc and cad plating is called 'passivating' and it makes the surface less susceptible to corrosion, a zinc plated bolt will show white powdery corrosion if not pasivated.

As has been said, Cadmiun has pretty much been outlawed on OH&S issues..... very poisonous.

Nickel is another matter entirely, more expensive and yes, a bit of a yellow (light gold) colour. Normally part of the chroming process, Copper, Nickel then a very thin layer of chrome. Nickel helps fill imperfections / polishing.

Having said that; a lot of old British bikes used Nickel as the final finish, it is a nice look, but expensive!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

I have a small zinc plating bath and also a nickel one. The zinc one is already up and running, but it's tedious work doing lots of small stuff.

The nickel one will work once I source a small, cheap heater (needs to run at 50-60C).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Like a submersible heater?

Yeah, someone said maybe a tropical fish tank one might work? dunno their temp though..

It's only a 3L plastic container, so needs to be small.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

An electric kettle and a thermostat.

I might be able to find a small heating element with a thermostat, I would have to look at the temp range. I know it works at about 20 to 30c, I would just have to see how high it goes.

I could use a Rheem water heater one and adj thermostat, but they are way too big for the container.
and I think even a 1.8KW would be overkill...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The problem is not the size of the heater, it is the size of the tank. Think big.

Now, would there be a market for plated sub-frames?

One of the eternal mysteries in UK is, WHY didn't BMC hot dip gal the bloody things...

then connect electrically to the body, and you have a sacrificial anode in wet weather!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think that in England the rear sub-frame is the sacrificial anode.

I have a lot of fun telling the poms and yanks that the sub-frames in Australian 1100's don't rust.