hey all,
my mini doesnt look like its gonna last much longer on the old hydro suspension, they have sagged terribly in the past few months and the max that i can pump it up still is very low and bottoms out on normal driving so i think i may have to go down the road of dry suspension....

- what needs to be done to convert to dry suspension???
- parts needed????
- cost??

i have also been told that i could try putting more "knuckle joints" (i think is what is was) something of that nature, i have no idea as to what they are, where they go and what they do??

thanks for any advice as to wat i should do
cheers
>Rude<

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

i found these suspension kits, is this everthing i would need to convert it to dry suspension??
Rear Kit http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-suspension-kit-Rear-Rubbers-Hi-Los-Ball-cups_W0QQitemZ190080919509QQihZ009QQcategoryZ32072QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Front Kit http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-suspension-kit-front-Rubbers-Hi-Los-Ball-cups_W0QQitemZ190080919507QQihZ009QQcategoryZ32072QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[edit] dont really want convert to dry, much rather improve the hydro

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

I would recommend you check a few things b4 going to a heap of work to change from wet to dry. Firstly, is there any fluid loss? You state the car has "sagged terribly over the last few months". Secondly, if the ball joints on the end of the struts are worn, or more likely the nylon cups in the suspension arms, this will reduce ride height. Thirdly, the struts (ball joint knuckles) can be packed with suitable washers to raise the ride height, within the limitations as mentioned in the manual. Lastly, the "bottoming out" can be mitigated (yeah, i like that word) by fitting the hydro competition bump stop kit. Just a few suggestions. Good luck

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Or you could try some replacement bags, if all else fails. Still most likely cheaper than going dry.

Remember, you will need to swap subframes, (or modify the wet ones, search on here for how, not simple)

Swap rear trailing arms, and swap front upper suspension arms. (or modify)

Stick with the wet, replace knuckle joint (which is the pivot point on the top suspension arm where the hydro bag pushes onto the arm)

Look at getting comp bump stops (mini spares UK, cheap as !!!) and front shocks.

If you want to go dry, it is easiest to build up complete dry sub-frames then swap them over.

HYDRO RULES!

Ahem..

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

pictures would be greatly appreciated as to what/where the knuckle joints are and also where to "Pack" the struts with suitable washers.

i already have bump stops and shockies on the front if that helps, would putting higher shockies on help?? coz its the front that seems to be that bit too low.
cheers
>Rude<

_________________

1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

"higher" front shocks won't help the ride height. That is governed by the Hydro bags, and knuckle joints.

I don't have any photos, but it is easy to see. Turn your front wheels so you can see in behind the tyre, or take the front wheel off.

The top suspension arm is the thick arm that holds the top of the swivel hub (brake assembly). Follow it back in towards the sub frame. On top of this arm, thwere will be a large rubber boot, covering the bottom of the displacer. It is usually perished. Underneath this boot is the knuckle joint.

To pack washers on this, first, buy the PROPER packing washers, there is a lot of force on these and cheapies won't cut it no matter who tells you "she'll be right". Mini spares in padstow has the right ones.

1) put car on axle stands (flat level surface etc.)
2) Deflate the hydro, remove rebound rubber stop from under the suspension arm to allow full drop.
3) Pull hydro bag off knuckle joint. Hydro bag stays in poosition, with no pressure, you can now manouvre the bottom off the joint. (WD40 helps here, levering may be required, as too is heating with an heat gun etc.)
4) lever out the knuckle joint from the top arm
5) replace with new knuckle joint, don't bother reusing old one.
6) put packing washers on the knuckle joint,
7) replace hydro bag onto knuckle joint
replace rebound rubber
9) pump up hydro
10) remove axle stands

Remember each 1mm washer will raise the front about 5mm. I used two 1mm washers per side on the front of mine.

Is the fluid at the right pressure?
Have you checked for air in the system?

Cheers
matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

What did you use to pump up the bags, and to what pressure? If the pressure is correct it is a mechanical certainty that it should rise to the correct height being that the medium is hydraulic.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

A while ago i took it to "M.R. Automotive" at redcliffe and they pumped it up with the hydrolastic pump kinda like this one (only picture i can find that looks like it)

they pumped it too 300 (psi?) if i can remember correctly they didnt want to go anymore than that as they didnt want te bags to blow.

and this picture might help as to pointing out what is what and where the knuckle joints are etc

any help is much appreciated
thanks
>Rude<[/img]

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

As for the knuckle joints, lift up the front of the car and remove the wheel. The knuckles will be right in front of you on the top side of the upper suspension arm. They are the mechanical connection between the hydro bags and the upper arm. Cheap to replace and not so very difficult with a set of sockets and spanners, but it means releasing the rest of the pressure in the hydro system to do so, and maybe removing the upper arm from the hub.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I've got a pair of front hydro bags you have have for nothing. They came out of my Matic shell and were working fine when I let the fluid out. I've pulled back the thin rubber skirt on the bottom (shown in your photo) and they look like new underneath.

I can show you what to do and show you the workshop manual pages you need. I can't help with the hydro pump up bit.

In Windsor. PM or call me 0408 015 127.

what should be the max pressure that old bags could handle??

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

300 - 320 Should put you at the right ride height.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

would it have made a difference having 4 rims/tyres in the car when i had it done the first time?? like would it have made it measure having more pressure than what it would of with that weight out of the car??

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

I don't worry about the pressure, I just pump it to the height I want/need.
BTW my 1970 car still has mostly all original knuckles/bags/pipes etc (except front end is off 1971 GT). No squeaks in there yet.
Not bad- 37 years old next month and still on the road...

I agree with those above- suss out what is wrong before chucking it all and going dry.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

doc id rather keep the hydro, dry is the last last last resort. i dont wanna be blowing bags tho last time i went to get it pumped up they didnt wanna put anymore than 300 coz they didnt wanna blow the bags, so what do you think my 39 yr old mini would handle with all original suspension bits??
also
should i get some new front bump stops?? as the car sits on them at present.
cheers
>Rude<

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82