I'm sorry Chris, but to me, these leads are highly desirable and probably possess extraordinary powers and abilities just because GR has endorsed them. You mark my words (in best Joh voice) they will become as legendary as the Brock Polariser.

The Doc has secured one of the very first sets for me ..and I intend to use them

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"Show me the Mini!"

Thats one hell of an inflation - 300% in a week as I saw them for $5 just over a week ago. And with the Liberals in power too.....that'll hurt Howard.

BTW if a lead is $15 then a set including the coil lead will be $75 not $60, but in reality its closer to $25. Not as nice looking as the GR set though.

I think your set will be set 3, GR od course has a set , myself yesterday morning and Yours yesterday arvo.

One thing i did notice when i fitted mine was that the revs jumped up a good 300-400 revs. Now i am not saying that the leads are magical or anything, but I am guessing he old leads were well and truely knackered. Good old top guns probably have a nice resistance value in them i would say.
Oh yeah, they do look good in the bay thats for sure.
Cheers
Aaron

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Sorry about the miscalculation on the lead price... What's a few $$ between mates?

I was sure I paid around $15 each... maybe that was for the whole set...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Everyone I think this has gone on long enough now.

To all the GR supporters, you are doing this thread no good by being so over sensitive, just chill and let people have a joke.

To all the others, Graham specifically said, lets give all the Ausmini guys a special price. He was TRYING to do you all a favour.

Mods, Please after you read this just delete all the meaningless fighting thats been going on its really not reflecting well on anyone. Least of all Graham Russell who has no idea of the shite thats going on right now.

cheers
chris

Ok, 2nd time this one has had to be cleaned up, please don't buy up all of Graham's stock before I get a chance to get mine.

EDIT - Anybody else besides Aaron used these yet?

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

So now, lets all behave.
No us Vs them, no GR vs anyone, no Chong vs Cush, no Chris Z referee, no MCC vs Ausmini.

Ben, to answer your question... the only person I know who is USING them right now is GR in the LS and Aaron in his mini.

As for the Pulsar question... yes they should fit as long as #1 is at 1 o'clock... but check when your handing over your cash.

I was also asked about postage... no idea sorry. If you want them posted, ask GR but more than likely someone will have to get them for you. (But not sure)

Peter.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

I have a new set of leads I bought at Autobarn some months back that are yet to be used - - pretty blue colour
I spent ages trying to work out the lengths etc to 'get it right'

My next set I'll buy from GR because:
1 ..the lengths will be right.
2.. I like the idea of the clips to keep it all neat
3.. I like the numbered leads
4.. they will be good quality (faith in GR at this point)
5.. the price is reasonable

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I got my set installed today. I had to get mine custom made from the source due to the fact that I am running a pulsar.

Firstly they look awesome. I spent time talking to the guys to make them for Graham who are a company that does that and only that, make ignition leads. They are a coiled lead with 2 layers of silicon, reinforced with fiberglass for extra strength.

Anyway I used Bosch leads before this and after replacing them with these my car idles 300rpm higher... I think my bosch leads due to their longer length were being pushed up against and bent by the bonnet hence maybe they were arcing on something? Well the engine revs noticeably better than before.

Consensus is, if you have good leads, keep them, if you want to replace your leads, these look good and work well and are a reasonable price. The only one bad thing I have to say about them is that if I need to get one or two replaced, I will have to get them remade

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Or if you'd like an extra 300rpm at idle, fit these leads.

I've just measured the resistance of these leads, they are around 155 ohms.
Copper wire is zero, Bosch are 1.8K Ohm, Top Gun etc are more again.
I've been told you need some lead resistance for good spark, can someone shed light on just how much... ie is 155 ohms better than say 2K ohm?
I usually bin resistance (ie suppression) leads when they get to 3K ohm or more.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So you've done the 3 cyl daihatsu conversion then chong?
KB

The impedance in the lead is purely for the suppression of RF.

The spiral windings of the core form an inductor in which the fields set up by the charge counteract each other and help suppress the sharp leading and trailing edges of what is actually a square wave of energy. It's the rate of change at these ends that cause the problems.

Early leads were straight copper, many industrial applications still use copper because there aren't any environmental considerations to worry about with RF generation.

If anyone has tried to tell you it improves spark, I reckon they're thinking of a transformer action where the field temporarily set up by the high voltage charge collapses at the end of the spark, self generating it's own voltage and continuing the process a little (poofteenth of a second) longer. This is why for instance you don't pull the plugs out of walls to turn things off, it causes sparking as the field in the appliance collapses generating a back EMF voltage.

The problem with this is one of newtons laws, where an energy has to be accounted for, it means that the energy used to continue the process is also used intially in creating the field. Like a heavy flywheel. All we have done is make the spark a little late, but made it last a little longer so all is in balance and mister newton is correct again.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks Mick.
This leads me to another question-
Many places now seem to sell only `resistor' type spark plugs. My understanding is these are made for the same reason- suppession of RF interference.
So, should they be run with copper leads, or suppression leads?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I remmeber back in the early 80s, we were running a Sport Sedan Mustang on Bert Jones' dyno at Church st Parramatta.
The car had about 400hp at the rear wheels and we were all rather impressed when Bert walked over and looked under the bonnet and said "Them plug leads are crap" The owner of the car asked "Whats wrong with them?" Bert replied "Do ya get any static in ya radio?"
Noise suppression has its place and Bert was trying to tell us where noise suppression was not needed!