I need a new gearbox case, although I've been told the case can be repaired, the engine builder (or should I say fixer) said a new case would be easiest at the moment.

I have a 4 synchro 22G1128 box at the moment, remote change and Cooper S outputs, the gearchange was always good and rebuilt 10K ago.

The case is damaged due to the idler gear going.

I have called around and have come up with what I reckon is the 2 best options. Another 22G1128 gearbox for about $234 probably requiring rebuild but the case is good. Or a Rover setup with all the bits to make it wrk on my engine. Now I've been told the Rover is much stronger. But costs about $800 (with alot of extra bits to make it work with my engine eg A+ primary gear etc) or $1000 with some work done.

My engine builder/fixer said he thinks probably just a new casing or new 'box and do the standard quick rebuild and everything should be fine. The damage seems to be caused by an old idler bearing which went and the idler shifted and lost half it's teeth.

I am putting 100+hp through this thing. Anbd I prefer remote change but I wouldn't mind rod if it meant having a really tough 'box.

What do others think from experience? Rover or is A-series good enough, this is not a racing engine.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

I vote remote, new 22g1128 case, get bearings and synchros etc checked and replaced while it's 'apart'.

These are used in NC racers that put out over 100hp, with higher revs than you would use. They are pretty strong, so if it is in good condition and not abused, it would be fine i would think.

Don't know anything about rover boxes, but it is a rod box with pot joints.... seems a shame to go that route, when you're mating it to a S block.

Also consider the additional engine support provided by the remote extension, you would need additional bracing when removing the remote extension housing.

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

sorry to hear it tim, hope you can get it going again for minis at the mill!

depends what you want really and how much you want to spend..

if my box shat itself, i would most definitely go to rod change with pot joints.. but thats my preference.

your car isnt a cooper S, so originality wont matter so much, more what you prefer to have or drive.

it wont need extra steadies, if you have the passenger side mount hooked up from the sc-12 kit.

I just prefer remote.... Much nicer!

Would a rover box be harder or easier to find parts for in the future? just a thought.

(i still say remote...... )

M

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

It is funny the way the gearbox in the Mini developed. None of the changes were actually for the Mini but were developed for other cars.

1) The Magic Wand. This is the true Mini gearbox.
They came up with a front wheel drive box using existing gears from the Austin A-30.
2) The Remote Change. This was developed for the Morris 1100. (except the 1100 had the rubber sandwich plate) BMC didn't spend money tooling up for a better gearbox for a Mini, it was for the 1100 range. When the A-30 gears were found to be too weak for the 1100 they came up with the B-type gears.
3) The Rod-Change was not made for the Mini, it was developed for the Austin Allegro. It just made sense to change the Mini to match the new car. (and leave matching oil leaks)

Mike...the story goes that John Cooper developed the remote as part of his "Cooperisation" of the Mini.....did he just utilise a development that had already been used in the M1100

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"Show me the Mini!"

John Cooper said "Since we were making a sporting car, we needed a remote gear lever and I guess that Jack Knight made it for us."
So John Cooper didn't even know who made the gearchange!
John Cooper's role in the development of the Cooper Mini has been blown out of proportion by hero worshipers. The only thing John Cooper provided was his surname.

The Mini Cooper beat the 1100 into production by a couple of months but the 1100 was already in pre-production and all the tooling had been made. There is no way that both Cooper and Austin came up with gearchanges that were 99% interchangeable by working separately.

So JC (God rest his soul) is off your Christmas card list

99% interchangeable by working separately...well...stranger things have happened

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"Show me the Mini!"

find another 22G1128 case, you ought to be able to find one significantly cheaper than that

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Me too. Rear mount on the remote is worth its weight in gold.
I've had top steadies on rodchange boxes tear out of 2 cars, the firewall mounting is weak and thin.

re the internals, all the gears in a 22G1128 remote box and an Oz rodchange box are exactly the same, except reverse gears are a different shape to suit the selector forks.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The $234 is a complete gearbox, not just a case, I should add. And The only cases I've found around the place are $150-200, so may aswell just buy the complete box rebuild that, and then try and fix my current 'box later.

I'm leaning towards just going and buying the 22G1128, getting it rebuilt and *fingers crossed* I don't blow the thing up again. There are many Mini's with more power than me, although my eninge is very torquey, even still. Nb and Nc Mini's are putting out tons more hp than mine.

The Mini I'm driving at the moment has rod change and pot joints and to be completely honest, I don't like it but I think it's fairly warn out, so a rebuilt system is going to be much better. Also I have a spare good condition magic wand box....hehehe...NO. Also the Cooper S uni's look awesome and cost me a fair amount, I'd like to keep using them, although it's probably quite possible to use them with any gearbox, as long as I swap over the drive flanges, yeah?

Doc, with your 90ish hp atws, what do you run? I want to get this fixed ASAP to get this car driving again! Also, what do you think about s/c drop gears? Expensive but sound like fun....

I think maybe during my rebuild the idler bearing was not replaced. Because I'm quite sure a good 4snychro Mini 'box should be able to take the grunt. I don't thrash my car, never drop the clutch or do anything mean like that, I keep the revs under 7 grand, and under 6 grand 99% of the time. It just started making noise. Still ran fine though. Without power loss....

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

If the case is just worn where the idler thrust washer runs, it's possible to machine the case flat again then get a thicker thrust washer made.
Provided it's not torn the idler bearing hole up...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I like the 1128 box remote change...the rods I have driven weren't the same...I'd swap what was good over to a New 1128 case, specaily as you know how it feels and how it should feel.
plus you have everything anyway except the parts that droke and will be cheaper

I'd go the remote

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Ok, I'm going to hunt for a bare case tommorow. My gearbox is quite good and is still direct and not sloppy. So I think that'll be the way to go.

I'm going to give it one last shot, if I blow it all up again...my car's getting a jap motor.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Plenty of casings around...
but the gearbox isn't the real issue... drop gears are.
i reckon with the power you have they are your weak spot.
i would suggest a big idler gear conversion on your remote box if not going to a A+ box.
otherwise you will be back on here sooner or later complaining of the same problem. even if it takes a bit longer or a bit more money, it is normally a one off payment

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