How do i fix this one? Dad and i tried some thread sealer stuff (aviation goo) but she still leaky...

Bloody modern car, leak all the time

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might be leaking inbetween the nut and pipe and coming out that way?

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

Does look like that, doesn't it?

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

That's what we think, too.

1. Cos it looks like that, and
2. Cos the thread seal goo should have fixed it.

It's the natural balance of things Een.
You cured the first leak, and the leak simply found a new hole to come out of. If you fix this one, it might try and get through the head gasket next!

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

replace the whole line with something like this
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34398

the main problem is there is a plastic ring (PN# LZB10017) inside, behinde the nut, that is pressed against the block and tube to seal. never works very long

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Rover 214 atm ....

Nahh , the whole car's rooted Een , it's about to catastrophically fail and cost a mint to repair , I'll give you $500 for it

Did you take the nut and pipe off to put the goo there or just smear it around ? Take it off completely and clean everything up , replace the washer that KLAS mentions (I thought it was a brass washer like the sump plug one though???) . While it's off also make sure the pipes clear and hasn't got any obstructions that could be increasing the pressure (take oil pressure relief valve out too and clear any junk in it) in the pipe causing a leak . Then change the oil and replace the filter in case there's a blockage in it as well . If it still leaks after that then it's probably easier to replace the pipe as a whole unit .

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it was plastic by factory
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32762

there are some "uprated" made of some aluminium but they don't seal any better

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Rover 214 atm ....

The early banjo pipe and copper washers was far more reliable than this POS design....
But for performance motors I use 1/2" 500PSI hydraulic return hose and Pirtek 1/2" BSP barbed push-in end fittings.
These hose ends screw straight onto a Cooper S oil cooler if I'm doing a track day. I just screw the cooler on and add a 2nd hose.

PM me if you want Pirtek part numbers.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yes, but is was not cheap enough so they invented this
and changed the thread from 5/8UNF to 11/16UNF so you can not use the older one

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Rover 214 atm ....

Hehe I have a lathe, I make my own adaptor nipples too.
11/16 UNF, no problemo...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i bought mine about 10 years ago, makes live so much easier, even more as i live in a metric world

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Rover 214 atm ....