hey guys how good are these cranks i know there no ENB40 but how good are they.

cheers
dan

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Cheers Dan

FIRST COMES THE MONEY, THEN COMES THE POWER, THEN COMES THE WOMEN.!!

send it to me, i`ll look after it for you

they`re great, have it crack tested before you use it just to make sure, but it doesn`t matter what crank it is, i`d still have it crack tested, but those particular cranks are pretty dam strong & i`ve taken some of mine to 9000rpms & for verry long periods of time & no dramas

Good for making into long stroke crank if you want to as well (if it`s stock std size- unground that is)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Well... the 12G1505 (late Morris 1100S, 1275LS, etc) cranks are only EN16 material, and are not tufftrided (hardened) like the small journal 1100S ones (and some Mk2 S cranks) used before them.
Also, many have had a hard life by now and are cracked- do get them crack tested before doing any work.

They are poorly counterweighted compared to other A series cranks, ie the sides of the crank are parallel- so they can tend to whip at high rpm and wear one side of the mains more than the other.
This can be improved heaps by wedging the crank- basically making the crankpin journal side of the webs narrower.

Here's a pic of my 12G1505 crank after stroking and wedging- before cleanup and balancing.


As they have 1.750" crankpins, it is common to offset grind them to 1.625" which increases the stroke by around 3.0mm. You then use Cooper S or MG Midget rods.

After either of the above steps you will need to get the crank dynamically balanced.

As for tufftriding, most heat treatment places in Oz that used to do this work no longer do. It's a molten arsenic salt bath process... not exactly good for the operator's health.
Rumour has it there's still one place in Melbourne that does it for the aero industry.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Would this crank be a good one?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200164640498&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=010

or do I need to find out more info. Are they stamped anywhere?

Thanks.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

Yes that crank will be fine, conrods are Cooper S type, bulletproof.
It's one of the best cranks around, good for racing too, but you can't stroke them like you can the big journal ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

sweet so i got my self i good crank now hope its not cracked.

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Cheers Dan

FIRST COMES THE MONEY, THEN COMES THE POWER, THEN COMES THE WOMEN.!!