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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:18 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
albino235 wrote:
So from all this would it be right to assume that a very good box for a supercharged big power motor would be;
A well built box by a competent person, straight cuts in S ratio from a good manufacture (maybe quaife?), straight cut drop gears and a cross pin diff, oh and a 3.1:1 dif to take advantage of the extra torque

And more questions :)
How well do the inner joints, CV's and drive shafts cope with large power?
I'm guessing a bonded clutch plate and orange clutch diaphragm are a must?

Never seen or heard of straight cuts in S ratio, ever.
Back in the mists of time though (the 60s) you could buy close ratio, helical...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:21 pm 
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998cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
KLAS wrote:
my turbo has 3.2, soon to become 2.76

You don't have a 110KMH blanket speed limit there... :lol: :cry:


but they are planning to limit it to 130km/h :cry:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:40 pm 
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1360cc
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yeah, but for a street car i'd personally avoid straight cuts.

also orange clutch pressure plate is a must.
i am just running a standard friction plate, theres no slip.
make sure its a good brand.

an LSD would be a good idea if you had the money.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:47 am 
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If buying std friction plates the Borg & Beck is the one to get. Ask for them by name. 8)
Many aftermarket ones have the texture and appearance of cardboard, get em hot and they are like wood. :lol:
You do get what you pay for.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:37 am 
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998cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
Never seen or heard of straight cuts in S ratio, ever.
Back in the mists of time though (the 60s) you could buy close ratio, helical...


The original gearbox from my Black Mk 1 S has those special close ratio helical gears, when I have it apart next will list the tooth count etc for all the gears.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:45 am 
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Quote:
yeah, but for a street car i'd personally avoid straight cuts.


Actually, straight cut gears are really not so bad, really it's the s/C drops that make most of the noise! :roll:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:41 am 
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graham in aus wrote:
Actually, straight cut gears are really not so bad, really it's the s/C drops that make most of the noise! :roll:


Agreed :shock:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 12:40 pm 
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Spaceboy wrote:
still couldnt cope, the gears themselves arent strong enough.


just thought i'd add..

Spaceboy wrote:
and wheelspin is a huge issue in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:41 pm 
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cush wrote:
Spaceboy wrote:
still couldnt cope, the gears themselves arent strong enough.


just thought i'd add..

Spaceboy wrote:
and wheelspin is a huge issue in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:50 pm 
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:lol: Those bloody ads


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:21 pm 
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does that mean we get to return the motion back at them with either.

a) a small cupping motion with the hands or

b) putting your hands in the prayer position, inverted them and wiggling your fingers... (try it out.. it should become apparent) ;)

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:33 pm 
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cush wrote:
Spaceboy wrote:
still couldnt cope, the gears themselves arent strong enough.


just thought i'd add..

Spaceboy wrote:
and wheelspin is a huge issue in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear.


wheelspin is good, you dont blow a gearbox with wheelspin, you blow it by not getting wheelspin hehe.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:54 pm 
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Spaceboy wrote:
cush wrote:
Spaceboy wrote:
still couldnt cope, the gears themselves arent strong enough.


just thought i'd add..

Spaceboy wrote:
and wheelspin is a huge issue in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear.


wheelspin is good, you dont blow a gearbox with wheelspin, you blow it by not getting wheelspin hehe.


Thats true, but it also explains why you've blown a diff. I've never blown a diff (or box) and everyone that I know who has blown a diff has been doing one wheel burnouts!

FEI (For everones info) my turbo engine was originally going to be a 1400 and the hairdryer was meant to go on the S engine. The head has offset valves and everything ala Vizard. Even the combustion chamber was made bigger for the 1400, not for the turbo.

In the end I couldn't get the pistons I needed for the S motor to put the turbo on it (It's already a 1310) and the block that was meant to be 1400 got bored to the next oversize (1293) from std and the turbo went on it. The turbo was never meant to have the SC bits but I wasn't putting a rod change with 5/16" bolts under the S block........

If I were doing it again for a blown /turbo street car I wouldn't bother with SC anything, it's way too exe when eventually it will let go.

Daniel

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:59 pm 
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yeah the diff blew before i supercharged it, i was just using it as an example of gear failure.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 1:38 pm 
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Well folks its D Day tomorrow... wish us luck! :D

Peter.

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