Hi Guys,

I’ve got and Ls1275 that I am restoring, i just put the rear end in today and the motor and sub frame, but i have had some trouble and need some help. Here is my issue

1. We lifted the car over the sub frame and motor today and the rear bolts and the tower studs lined up beautifully, however the front bolts ate 20mm from the body. I think we have put it down to 2 things but i would like your input

a I bought a re-pro front number plate panel and had it welded in when the car was repainted. I made the mistake of not checking all of the brackets if they were correct. Can anyone who has used one of these panels please advise if the mounting brackets are the same, because at present not only am i 20mm from the sub frame to the body metal, but i am also 15mm lower than the hole it is to screw to.

b I changed the sub frame over to a 1974 sub frame, would this caused and issue? I think not as i have measured twice and it all sees fine.

I do think it is this new front. If some one can confirm it would be appreciated. Also can anyone advise how much these bolts are for structural integrity? Reason i ask is if it is minimal I will make a bracket and pack it out.

Last of all i would appreciate if someone could send me a picture of how the front of the sub frame connects to the body to make sure i have done it right.

Thanks for the help in advance

Regards
Ryan

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Ryan

LS1275 - Hi Ho Silver
Moke 1981 - Mokee
Moke 1981 - Project
Moke 1978 - The Yellow One

As far as I am aware, the repo front clubby panels ARE different for the subffame mounting points at the front. At least, I know the one I had needed mods by the PO.

Chris

Is caused by the pommies rubber mounting their subframes at one point or another?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks guys for the reply,

I have been kicking myself all day tryinyto work out what to do.

Would any one have a photo of the modification they would have made? Also if any one has any ideas i would be keen the know

PS. Chris now that i have the body back i wil send you the numbers for the LS register


Regards
Ryan

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Ryan

LS1275 - Hi Ho Silver
Moke 1981 - Mokee
Moke 1981 - Project
Moke 1978 - The Yellow One

Well according to the Minispares website it was rubber mounted from 1976 on which was right in the middle of the Clubman lifetime wasn't it?

Anyway, here's the kit that they use to make the rubber mounted subframe solid again, I guess the round bits at the front may be the ones you need to copy:

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32785

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

About 12 years ago I had an early 1977 Leyland Mini, and a 1978 Leyland Mini S.
We dropped the engines, subframes etc from both cars as it was my intention to put the engine from the 1977 and whichever other bits were more serviceable into the 1978.

The subframes were the same, but on the 1978 car the subframe had those solid spacers on the front. We ended up putting the same subframe back in the 1978, with the engine and box etc from the 1977, and used the spacers. There was no way either subframe would fit into the later car without those spacers - like the front panel was somehow spaced out from the firewall differently or something.

I later had a 1275LS, but I never checked to see if the subframe had spacers on the front.
I just always assumed that all the late aussie cars had those spacers?

Cheers,
Ray.

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68 Morris Minimatic - Blue/White


29 Chev tourer
31 A Coupe
63 Anglia
63 VW Beetle
69 VW Beetle convertible
89 Daihatsu Charade
03 Mitsubishi Mirage
07 Nissan Micra

Just to be sure I went and checked.
My 7/78 1275LS does not have the spacers. I think you will find that replacement front panels having been sourced from the UK and made for their cars are set up for them.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yes, agree with Mick. Seen this on a few cars now (roundnoses as well). Repro panels have been adjusted for fitment of spacer. Just get a whole bunch of big arse washers like I did.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Make sure you fit the correct teardrop mounts, I always fit solid ally ones.

Do not just use big washers as this will damage the front panel and affect your handling.

If you do not want to go solid mounted use the rubber Minispares / sport ones. They are also available from www.dsnclassics.co.uk. Great place for Mini and Minor spares.

Nige

All Oz Mini subframes until the end in 1978 are solid mounted, so don't fit teardrop rubbers, just make up some spacers. Alloy is nice.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Everyone,

Thanks for the great help. I am much happier today.

I will source the Alloy Tear Drop bracket today.

Another 6 months and i will be ripping up the road

Thanks again

Ryan

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Ryan

LS1275 - Hi Ho Silver
Moke 1981 - Mokee
Moke 1981 - Project
Moke 1978 - The Yellow One

Do Aus minis not bolt the teardrop to the front panel and then the subby bolts through the teardrop then Dr?

Are they all as per the UK Mk1 shells?

Nice to get to know the differences between uk and Aus Shells.

Nige

Nigel,
All our Oz shells 1961-78 are as per a UK Mk1, small rear window and all.
There are a few detail differences, mainly in the floors- which from 67 on have channels in em for hydro and brake pipes.
And we got windup window doors from 1965 on.

The front panel fitting problem only comes when we import UK Clubby or Rover front panels which are made to suit your 76-on rubber mount subbys, and then fit them to our solid mounted front subbys..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You can buy just the teardrops



http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=37303

Dicko