I can see the advantage of having a fragile bolt that goes deeper into the block.

I Can't

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

lol, that's the idea

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

so if 'one' was to convert from bolt to STUD where would 'one' acquire said studs from? and wat is the difference in torque settings or is it the same?

Matt

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

You would get the studs from a Mini parts supplier like Karcraft or Mini King as well as the nuts to go with them.
Follow the torque settings in the book or with the gasket kit. I don't think that there was any difference in the setting between the studs or bolts (but there should have been!)

My 2c...

I have never blown a head gasket on the turbo engine and I'm basically using the stock gasket mentioned by others (the Payen one). Copper ones always seem to leak oil for me and they need retorquing several times after fitment - not good...

Replace the bolts with studs. I have had many bolts break during assembly (on other peoples engines - I only use studs) and they do not clamp the head properly IMHO.

Finally, after the first warm up/down - retorque the head and check/adjust the tappet clearance. I always do this and have never needed to retorque down the track.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Were you touching your woody when you typed that Doz???

but i agree with what you have just said, so don`t blame me if you have just hexed yourself

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Depends which workshop manual you read.
The Leyland Black book makes no mention of head bolts, (typical Leyland Oz attention to detail.. NOT, we made heaps of 1098s with bolts). It says 40lb/ft, but 42lb/ft for Cooper S studs.
My Gregorys 02 manual says-
UK engines only- (which all had studs and nuts)-
40lb/ft, except 1275 engines 50lb/ft.
Australian engines-
45 lb/ft (nuts) or 50lb/ft (bolts).

The theory here is a coarse thread (as the bolts are) requires more torque to develop the same axial force. Pity the bolts break in the process as the bolt's thread pitch deforms at top of block.

Stick to studs, they are much stronger. If you want better still, buy an ARP competition stud set.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

lol yeh i was lookin at getting some APR's did not know they had a competion range?

so basically wat your saying is that anywhere between 40-45lbs should be sufficient?

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Yep, 45 lb/ft is no problem with standard studs and nuts. Oil the threads and under the heads.
Speaking of nuts, the late 998 flanged ones are best, no need for washers.
If using the early hex nuts, put a proper thick head washer under them, do not use flat washers from Bunnings etc- they are soft rubbish now.
You can buy a competition head washer kit C-AHT288 for $15 from Karcraft etc.

ARP studs are designed for competition (name means American Racing Products).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

oh.... thats what it stands for..... cheers doc!

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

I was always under the impression that ARP stood for Automotive Racing Products

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

After Racing Piss-up

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.