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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:26 pm 
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998cc
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Hi there,

I have a leaking welsh plug (2nd from left at front of engine) which needs replacing. I've never done this before and would appreciate any tips, instructions, warnings etc from others here who have done this job.

I've done a search here but came up with nothing.

Specifically:

1. How to remove existing welsh plug without access to professional tools

2. How to fit new plug

3. Does the new plug require any sealant etc?

4. Any precautions

Also while I'm at it, I'd like to flush the radiator/engine and have heard that there's a specific "technique" for flushing and reverse flushing. Any tips on this would also be appreciated.

Do other mini owners use water additives such as anit-freez/anti-boil? Or corrosion inhibittor? I'm noticing the water coming out of my radiator overflow is pretty mucky (hence the flush) but want to know if it's worth also putting in some sort of corrosion inhibitor etc.

Cheers,
BC.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 8:24 pm 
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998cc
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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... welsh+plug

I believe this thread has the answers :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:19 pm 
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Ok, I am now an 'expert' and here we go...and we all know what an 'expert' is don't we!!! If anybody wants to add/change this, please do so.

1. Get good access - remove what you have to. (oil filter feed pipe, front grille) and drain the coolant out of the system.

2. Get the old plugs out with a screw-driver and hammer - bash a hole in the old ones and 'lever' them out.

3. Clean up the holes with a wire brush on the end of your electric drill and scrape away any crud etc. Make the surface shine.

4. Do a 'test fit' of your new plugs to make sure they will fit nice and snug.

5. Get your new BRASS plugs and sealant. Insist on brass ones as they do the job better than steel ones - Minitopia can get these for you and there's a link to Ballistics web-site at the foot of any of his posts. I have Stag sealant, available from most auto spares shops - other people use other ones. Put a smear of sealant around the plug and place it it the hole - convex side facing out.

6. Using a hammer and dolly/drift or whatever, spread the plugs.

7. Job done - refill radiator with coolant.

What do you reckon, make this post into a sticky???

Hooroo

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:24 pm 
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No but we could put it in the How Too section

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:50 am 
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Just a tip,I had a new one that wept ,and i used a sealant as well..The way i fixed it was get something that's steel and a curved shape e.g ''socket'' and put it on the edge of where it leaks and give it a few taps with a hammer...Fixed mine!! Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 9:18 am 
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With the `lens' type plugs (used on smallbores) don't hit them beyond FLAT, or they will get smaller and leak... :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 9:35 am 
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Often you dont need to bash a hole in it with a screw driver to lever them out . Just get a drift and pick a point on one side midway between the top and the bottom (say three o'clock) Give the drift a couple of sharp whacks with a hammer. The plug should turn inwards on that side with oter side protruding out.

Grab the protruding side with vice grips and pull the plug out.

Doing it this way - you only have a small area of contact at the top and and the bottom of the plug and its easy to pull it.

Mike


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 9:46 am 
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1275cc
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Are you sure it is convex facing out, I've always done them concave out - so that they curve in towards the engine?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 9:52 am 
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1310/71 wrote:
Are you sure it is convex facing out, I've always done them concave out - so that they curve in towards the engine?

Convex out with the dished ones, convex in with the cup ones (bigbores).

Mike, your method works with the cup ones but the dished ones go against a shoulder- they are best hit near the middle.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:17 pm 
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and besides, you can't re-use them so might as well have a bit of fun wrecking them!

but if you do drive a screwdriver through tem make sure you dont go too far or you might damage the cylinder wall...

make sure you use BRASS ones, steel ones are no good

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:21 pm 
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Are the good ones BRASS or BRONZE ??????


Yes everyones agrees about steel ones as not being the ideal.

Mike


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:22 pm 
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Mike_Byron wrote:
Are the good ones BRASS or BRONZE ??????


Yes everyones agrees about steel ones as not being the ideal.

Mike

Brass I think. That's what they call em anyway.
You can also get S/S ones but I don't like them, too hard to get sealed right.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:28 pm 
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I just asked because not that long ago I took a motor to our local machinist along with all the bits he was going to need.

Amongst these bits was a packet of brass plugs. When I went to pick the motor up I noticed the plugs hadn't been changed and the machinist told me you dont change good bronze welsh plugs for brass ones.

Mike


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:30 pm 
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well, he's the one who knows about them i suppose.

dont know what they used to be but they are advertised as brass now

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:33 pm 
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Either brass or bronze welch plugs will outlast any steel parts in the water circuit.
I make bypass adaptors out of brass and they never corrode. 8)

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