i made this up to hold my filter - bit more bling!!

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backyard performance............. Aint it the best

With this SC set up I'm curious about the manifold inlet. It has a lot of stress and weight on it, is their any special way of mounting the manifold? Also I asume the belt has a tensioner on it, where? and what pully is it driven off?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

its tensioned by a neat little tensioner attached to the manifold/plenum, and its driven off a replacement for the harmonic balancer/crank pulley

yeah theres a bit of weight on the inlet studs, but noone has had any issues that i know of if thats what you're getting at?

mine's holding up great, except for the s/c belt not being tensioned properly from the workshop which destroyed my fan and damaged my radiator.

they're a fair bit of work to set up and the idle hunts around and stalls sometimes, but apart from that its fantastic and very driveable.

Spaceboy,
Is the crank pulley a harmonic balancer (crank damper) still, if not your crank life will be reduced markedly... 1098 and 1275 A series NEED a damper...
If you don't believe me read Vizard et al, or talk to Graham Russell...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It's a turned down harmonic balancer as to whether it still works, I have no idea, but the oldest kit I've seen (which was the first too, I think) has been going strong for years and gets driven hard too!

And Ben's race car has been holding together well too.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Probably is OK then. Just don't be tempted to use a plain pulley, Bling or not- with no damping in it.... unless it's a drag motor only and you want hours of life not months/years...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think, for me, it'll be a 'time will tell' sort of thing.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

My belt slipped off numerous times, at least 10+. The 'supplier' couldn't even work out why! Possibly the engine kicked back when turned off..
Has been OK with the new head tho, maybe it lines up better ?!? **knocks wood**


At least i'm not alone there.

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Carl
Previous Owner & Driver of 1 Morris "It's not a Cooper!!" 850

Sonds like my mental images were right Pretty much you pull the main pully (bottom one) off, chuck it on a metal layth and machine the correct groves in to it to suite the belt.
I've though if this was a good idea or not but by the sounds of it the jury is still out, theirs possable problems but nothing has surfaced yet. Fingers crossed

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I think the idle issue mightbe related to your cam. I'm running a stock Cooper S cam (as far as I know) and I don't have idle issues, jsut doesn't like to idle below about 800, warmed up it idles around 1000 but sinks a little below that and it's fine.

You both (spaceboy and sox61) both run RE13Ts so I think this might be the reason, you sacrifice nice idleing for power, IMO probably worth it!

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

yeah idles crap without the supercharger, and crapper with it.
fiddling with the springs and carb oil has improved it somewhat, the hunting that is.

The crank pulley is a 1275/1098 harmonic balancer tuned down and grooved to suit the multi vee belt so it still dampens the harmonics out vizard talks about them being too heavy in the first place so turning them down slighty should be better.
Postive displacement supercharger and modified cam equals engine hunting at idle just look at top fuel dragsters bit extreme but same thing, to do with the way the air is retricted and then pushed and sucked through the sc rotors and overlap of cam. Increasing the idle speed to about 1000-1200rpm helps a lot.

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4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

Hi all.. I have my kit running on my 998 in the UK.

Do the breathers from the SC Suck? or do I have a problem with the SC?

I was looking at some of the pics on page one and it looks like the breather on one of the pics is connected to the VAC on the carb. I have connected mine to the breather on the side of the HIF.

The sucking is putting my idle to about 1800... disconnect them and its much better. I'm worried that the SC is faulty..


Thanks for any help

Graham

Incidently, mine is running now. I haven't taken pictures though.

I have issues with stalling, some backfiring through the carb if you put your foot down under about 2500 RPM and its a bitch to start when its cold.

Its fun, but I'm buying a new car as a daily driver .

Mine occasionally back fires through the carb on start up, but never whilst running anymore. The strongest HIF spring (green I think??) did the trick for me.

It runs much nicer with the stiffer spring, better take off, better low down torque, and little to no hesistation.

As for stalling? Mine doesn't by itself, only if user induced.

However mine does blow a bit of smoke nowadays. I think the valve guides or seals are gone (the seals were only replaced a few thousand kilometres ago ). Either way, at the moment it's my daily driver and I'm happy.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T