I have an 1100 with a cartridge oil filter and I want to swap it for a screw on filter. I have a parts engine with a screw on filter attached. What do I need to do to swap them over?
Will I be able to reuse the studs after I remove them from the donor engine?
And do I need to swap the copper pipe over? (the donor has a banjo connection to the block and the 1100 has a standard "straight in" type connection).

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Umm I dont know what you mean when you say banjo fitting but anyway

You need a new and correct gasket - they are different between the canister and the spin on. Ypu need to use the longer studs from the spin on type on the donor engine. You need a new oil filter.

With the pipe into the oil filter housing - the actual fitting on the spin on is the same as the canister. Whats above it (banjo ??? ) is of litle relevance so you can use the one that is easiest.

Be careful when undoing either end on both of the copper pipes - the nut can be frozen to the copper pipe from the oil way and at either end. Too much force on a frozen nut and the pipe will twist and break. Use a penetration fluid and little backwards and forwards movement wit the spanner to get the nut moving without grabbing the pipe and breaking it. Its a ten minute job once you have the bits and get started.

Mike

The banjo bolt pipes are better, the later straight ones are renowned for leaking at the top fitting.
They are interchangeable.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So what type works better?

My block has the older cartridge which I was going to replace with a spin on . . . until I talked with GR yesterday. He was telling me of a mini in targa (someone might know who it was) that blew the seal on a 'spin on' filter, dumped the oil and destroyed a $12,000 engine. Something about the paper seal has to be dry to work effectively.

His advice was to stay with a cartridge if you can put up with the extra hassle and mess of changing the element etc.

Regards

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Well the spin-on one is the same as a Chev LS1 apparently, so should be adequate in a Mini, IF the filter is well made. Trouble now is they all come from Asia... even Ryco ones.
The old cartridge had more filter area too, but yes it's a bit messy to change.

One problem with cartridge filters is some new Ryco ones no longer have the 2 lower seals in the box, only the top O-ring...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks guys.

My brothers V8 cruiser uses a Z418 oil filter, same as my minis so if it's good enough for a BIG V8 it should be good enough for a mini.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

So long as you buy a brand name filter (Wix UK) (Coopers UK) you will get a quality oil filter cheaper than the Asian filters.

Not everyone supplies the same thing.

Customers just have to ask a few questions.

The spin on oil filter heads require shorter studs.
A spin on oil filter kit is available that includes oil filter head + filter + studs + gaskek.

I don't know if you guys had MG Metros over there but the MG Metro filter head is a long body one like the earlier type but with a spin on adaptor - Brickworx or someone like that might have some around?

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Pip, pip old boy

No , we didn't get the metro's here though there are some about and a fair few engines .

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I'm trying to visualize what you mean?
Blew the seal on the"spin-on" Filter.Do you mean it came away from the oil filter.Did the filter come loose,though this should not happen in a Targa Event,as the filter and sump plug need to be attached(wired).

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After re-reading the original post I take it to mean that the paper gasket onto the block let go, as if the element came detached inside the canister you wouldn't lose any oil.
The mounting flange is much flimsier than the good old cartridge one.
As Karcraft says, the studs are shorter, but I just use 2 starter bolts. And I cut my own gasket from industrial gasket material.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Where do people go for their Oil filters (spin on type), like ryco Z418's?
KMART stock the Z418 normally but were out.

What's best, where from, how much?

Just went and got some KMX on special so need the filter to complete the things needed for oil change.
Thanks
KB

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When you blow the seal on the spin on filter it usually means the rubber seal on the top of the filter gets blown out by oil pressure. Usually caused by too high pressure and thick (cold) oil and the filter not being done up tight enough. I have done it on Holdens a few times and I always run a clamp around the filter to stop it from coming loose.

"When you blow the seal on the spin on filter it usually means the rubber seal on the top of the filter gets blown out by oil pressure. "

In which case the spin on should be more secure as the seal is much more secure than the type used in the separate filter fitting.

If you want a larger filter (very similar in size to the early filter) - or can't find a reference to the Mini in the manufacturer 's just pick one intended for an early water cooled VW.

Cheers, Ian

Not really Ian, the cartridge filter seal is sitting low in a groove and the can is also fitted into the groove. The seal has nowhere to go if it is fitted correctly.
The spin-on filter seal is sitting on a flat surface on the housing side and a badly formed groove on the other side. The seal under pressure will try to slide on the flat surface (and the oil on the sufface when fitting only makes it worse) and the seal will roll out of the groove in the filter.
The cartridge filter can handle a lot more PSI before failure than the spin-on.