Barney (1293A+) has recently started putting more vibes into the body at different RPM, this is most noticeable in the current cold weather. It's worst at about 1500. Over 3000 it's fine.
Where once only the driver's door lock linkage vibrated, now you can feel it in the steering wheel, parcel shelf, floor, etc.
Clutch feels normal and the vibe periods are there even with the pedal in...
I suspect the PO fitted antique engine mounts which are now rock hard in cold weather, so I'll change `em soon and let y'all know.
Other theories??

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What about exhaust mounts? Although that usually induces more of a drone than vibration, if we were to get technical.

You have yourself a nice harmonic happening there. On one my cars I bolted a heavy metal block about 3 inchs before the flex point that was vibrating- but with a mini that would be entire car.

It's a remote change box, with standard Cooper S ex mounts, no problems there... it doesn't rely on the exhaust pipe to be a torque arm (like 850 and rodchange do).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Does it do it when sitting at revs or only when driving ? How long since it's had a wheel alignment or balance ?

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could the harmonic balancer be on it's way out?

I get more vibration with my new motor than I expect, and I wonder about my hb

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

+1 for harmonic balancer if it does it stationary while revving and while driving.
If its only while driving I would look at the engine steady - do you have bottom and top steadies? Mine started vibrating like yours and its teh clutch side top engine steady (not tight anymore (rubber collapsed?)

Pete

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Ian it does it sitting still, in neutral or in gear with clutch in, doesn't matter. It's rpm related. As I said it's worst when weather is cold.. like lately.

Simon, I'll check the H/B today, but it's only done 10,000KM since I fitted it and it had no cracks in the rubber then.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

so you're saying cracks in the rubber isn't a good thing then? (mine is the best of a bad bunch)

what are our options for newies/repairs/replacements?

are they balanced independent to the motor?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

If rubber is cracked it's on the way out. Bad news on a 1275 or 1098.
New ones are NLA I think, but Ross Tuffbond in Blacktown can reco them.
Or, you could use a Romac one (made in Brissy).
Or, you could get an Exxy one from MiniMania.
Yes they are balanced by the maker/repairer, GR never balances them he says.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm looking for a price... Fabre says $295

my engine machinist says Romac are in Wagga, www.romac.com.au says they are in SA, and you say they are in Brissie - elusive bunch

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

$154 for a 2 piece S type HB

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Wombat got a 1 piece one done there...

BTW just checked mine, the rubber is still fine..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

the 1 piece is probably preferable for the 'race' motor isn't it.... the one on there now is 1 piece, but I need the 2 piece done for the S motor down the track, so I got the price for it

edit: price is the same anyway

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

definitely in the "thrush" category.

Checked the engine steady bushes? Rather obvious but.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.