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 Post subject: Paint Prep.
PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 8:46 pm
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Location: Adelaide
While the mini is off the road for 12 months it will be getting a respray. Im thinking of getting the whole shell sandblasted. Has anyone ever done this? Or is it just easier to strip bak by hand?

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12 Months ?????????????


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 8:31 pm 
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sand it...then you really do get a feel for what needs doing.


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 Post subject: ,
PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2004 6:39 pm
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Location: Kaniva / Adelaide / Melbourne
Ive been told that snad balsting the whole var can leave little dents all over your car!? Not sure if this is true or not. If youve got the time do it by hand!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 8:34 pm 
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Location: Penrith, NSW
Id sand it.....saves dollars aswell :P

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 9:27 pm 
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Location: Plumpton, NSW
On thin metal, sand (or more likely glass bead blasting) can leave panel distorted rather than dented panels. I had a non-mini shell bead blasted by a reputable company. This shell had very thin metal and no problems occured. If in doubt, consider chemical dipping - places like redistrip. There's a few in Melbourne, a couple in Sydney. Check your local area. The only problem for the home restorer with either method is that it will remove all traces of paint everywhere. A lot of manufacturers dip-paint bodyshells when new up to half way up the a pillars, then top coat the lot. It's hard to get paint back into some of the recesses with a spray gun.

KB


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 5:18 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2004 6:46 pm
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Location: ADL
You still thinking of doing it rally style?
A road going rally car - 10s, mudflaps, spotlights, stickers,
would be awesome.

Think about it!
But the cop attention :cry: :oops:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 5:27 pm 
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Nope...its gunna be devil yellow with a black roof.

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12 Months ?????????????


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 5:41 pm 
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Location: ADL
Still sounds nice :)

What wheels?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 8:59 pm 
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1310/71 wrote:
On thin metal, sand (or more likely glass bead blasting) can leave panel distorted rather than dented panels. I had a non-mini shell bead blasted by a reputable company. This shell had very thin metal and no problems occured. If in doubt, consider chemical dipping - places like redistrip. There's a few in Melbourne, a couple in Sydney. Check your local area. The only problem for the home restorer with either method is that it will remove all traces of paint everywhere. A lot of manufacturers dip-paint bodyshells when new up to half way up the a pillars, then top coat the lot. It's hard to get paint back into some of the recesses with a spray gun.

KB


Any idea on the cost of that Kev??

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:25 pm 
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Location: Plumpton, NSW
I'm guessing - it's been a while: around $600.

I paid $375 10 yrs ago.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:56 am 
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Location: Armidale, NSW
what the panel beaters doing my brothers car suggest is that you strip it using paint stripper by hand and then get all the fiddly bit like sils and seams etc. done by sand blasting.
That way you don't get any distortion of panels (this generally happens on flat large panels) from the sandblaster and it saves money. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 9:07 am 
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just buy a twisted wire attatchment for your angle grinder ;) works a treat on anything (including bog and surface rust) took me about 45 mins to do one side of a clubman.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 10:12 am 
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ausminis4u wrote:
just buy a twisted wire attatchment for your angle grinder ;) works a treat on anything (including bog and surface rust) took me about 45 mins to do one side of a clubman.


If you do this though, it can leave gouges or swirl marks in the metal which you need to use hi-fill primer to cover, same with Orbital sanders (unless they are random pattern - usually air driven specialist panel beater tools rather than your electric 1/3 sheet sander).

If you're doing a full on bare metal resto, you don't want that.
KB


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 12:48 pm 
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1310/71 wrote:
ausminis4u wrote:
just buy a twisted wire attatchment for your angle grinder ;) works a treat on anything (including bog and surface rust) took me about 45 mins to do one side of a clubman.


If you do this though, it can leave gouges or swirl marks in the metal which you need to use hi-fill primer to cover, same with Orbital sanders (unless they are random pattern - usually air driven specialist panel beater tools rather than your electric 1/3 sheet sander).

If you're doing a full on bare metal resto, you don't want that.
KB
yeah i was sceptical about that aswell , but mine came up liuke pollished steel , no gouges at all .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 2:04 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
What Ben is talking about is a 4" straight `twistknot' wire wheel, with 5/8" hole for a 4" angle grinder.
Once the wires are burnished a bit from use, it's hard to gouge steel. Takes everything else off real quick! 8)
And it's real great for the Mini side seams... :wink:

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