Louis, where did you get the power (contant and switched)for the radio from? It could be a connector, or one of those wires to the radio shorting.
It could be the ignition switch as Lindsay_Palmer has previously mentioned.
Do you have a thermo fan (sorry i cant remember)?
did you remove any wires from the alternator? Maybe knocked them and they are earthing out?
Did you jack the car up from and did you have stands under the car? If you did maybe you pinched a wire and its causing the problem.

Hope this in someway helps.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

I had two ignition switches die in my mazda 626 due to crimp connectors used for general wire joining (i.e joining two wires together not connectors into/out of electrical components). Got rid of all unnecessary connectors with soldiered joins and shrink wrap, Problem solved.

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Lindsay Palmer
06 Mazda SP23
80 Alfa GTV (weekend toy)
86 626 Turbo (daily drive, now stolen)
71 cooper s replica
69 cooper replica
76 clubman
62 english 850
68 Mini Auto

If you have simply replaced the radiator and now find that fuses are blowing you need to check any wiring you may have disturbed.

The wiring in a clubman that may be causing you problems after working on that side of the motor is the power feed to the washer pump and reverse light switch. Check that this wiring is secure before embarking on other fault finding exercises. A wire may have fallen off and is shorting to earth.

DO NOT uprate fuses - They are there to protect the wiring not the connected device. The Prince of Darkness will emit clouds of smoke and melt wiring to those who fail to undestand this!

The fuel guage wiring and radio wiring will (should) originate from the ignition plus a permanent +12v connection for the radio. If this fails (the ignition circuit) then there will be other circuits not operating as they should as well. If this is not the case eg blinkers functioning normall, car starts, brake lights etc. then you quite possibly have 2 separate and unconnected faults.

The electrical circuit that feeds the fuel gauge also feeds the temp gauge. If the temp gauge works then the fault lies with the fuel gauge circuit. Either no power from the +10v stabiliser (unlikely if the temp gauge works) or the sender and its asscociated wiring. Check the connections at the tank sender unit.

If you have a short which is constantly blowing fuses (and Im presuming the 35amp ignition fuse) you will need to eliminate the circuit. To do this remove each green wire (from the ignition fuse connections) one at a time to find the offending circuit. Once you have identified the circuit that is causing the fault, check each device that it feeds (inthis case the devices that no longer work as a result of isolating the fault).

To save blowing fuses each time you check for a fault you can replace the fuse with a 12V/21W globe (solder on some wires to the globe base and then connect to each end of the fuse holder). A short circuit will result the globe operating at full brightness rather than blowing a fuse. Make sure you dont short anything out doing this though.

i replaced a light switch once and had a loom catch on fire becasue the hole at the back of the engine bay leading to the back of the speedo had a wire rub through on the metal i didnt touch the wire that went but found the signs after the wake up call. might be something u even lent on a little or something u bumped pulling a tool kit out of the boot or possibly complete coincidence. maybe try unhooking each part and seeing if it still happens so u can narrow down the search

hope thats any use

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Enjoy Chris

At risk of repetition & stating the obvious, ad nauseam, check for shorts, visual inspection of your wiring.

Crap dept - Take an i-pod and a wooden dip-stick on your next drive.......................

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated!

Will have to go and see a auto electrician as i cannot find anything obvious.

Now i am a bit confused, the original fuse was a 25A and some people mention 30A and 35A. Did try a 30A and it work for a bit longer then blow up.

Anyone looking for a Cooper, the auto electrician selling his!!!!

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