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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 6:21 pm 
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I cant find a place to mount the overflow tank. Its the same size as the washer bottle. At the moment it is plastic ties attached to the inside of the grill. I know it cant stay there but at least its working.

Question:
Can it be mounted much lower than the radiator? I reckon I can mount in below bumper height in front of the alternator, as long as the height (compared to the radiator) isnt a problem

Jill

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 6:28 pm 
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What year model is it for, you shouldn't need one if you have the correct radiator cap. I could be wrong though, later models had them i seem to remember, but i have never used one.

Cheers

Aaron

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 6:46 pm 
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doesnt matter what year or radiator cap you have aaron. as far as I know.
When the water heats up it expands, blows into the overflow tank. When the engine cools it sucks that water back into the radiator and you hardly ever need to add water. unless theres a problem

Ive just been reminded that there is a bracket that holds the old washer tank and motor. I used the bracket that came with the new one (crappy metal strap), and I just last night found the proper bracket for that in the pile of leftovers. I'll clean it up and should be able to use it to mount my overflow tank in front of the radiator on the firewall :)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 9:24 pm 
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Morris 1100's used to use a blank radiator cap with nothing in it on the radiator and the proper cap on the overflow bottle.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 11:05 pm 
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They're mounted above radiator cap height on the austin 1800. I have a metal overflow tank same as the 1800 and I guess the Morris 1100. Right now its mounted on the LHS where the horn/washer bottle/voltage regulator go. It's below the radiator cap height.

I'd really like to move it up next to the wiper motor but it will probably a tight squeeze.

dewey

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 7:49 am 
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Jill you will need a recovery type radiator cap otherwise fluid won't be returned to the radiator when it cools. Not sure about your radiator but I had to have the neck on mine shortenned so I could get a recovery cap that fits. It cost me $39 including the cap.

Kris


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 8:58 am 
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Mini68 wrote:
Jill you will need a recovery type radiator cap otherwise fluid won't be returned to the radiator when it cools. Not sure about your radiator but I had to have the neck on mine shortenned so I could get a recovery cap that fits. It cost me $39 including the cap.

Kris


Read my post above. The cap on the radiator that was fitted standard by leyland was a blank cap. I don't know where the idea of a special cap ever came from in minis....or any other car for that matter.The expansion tank has the normal radiator cap.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 10:23 am 
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As far as I know the type of cap needed depends on the type of overflow or recovery tank fitted.

If its the old style tin tank as fiited to Morris 1100's, mokes etc then as Chris mentioned you have a plain cap on the radiator and a standard cap on the expansion tank. I don't know if this type of system was fitted as standard to late minis or not.

If a plastic or aftermarket recovery tank is fitted similar to those used on modern cars then a recovery type cap is needed.

I have the second type of tank fitted to my car and had the radiator neck changed because I was told I could not get a recovery type cap that was deep enough to fit my radiator.

I mentioned the different tanks cause I know Jill had mentioned getting an aftermarket tank from Repco I think it was. Anyway I assumed that it would be the plastic type one.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:21 pm 
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hmmm. Well I know water was coming out of the little pipe just under the cap when it was hot, I just assumed that it would be able to suck the coolant back when it had cooled. Maybe not.
I'll have to check if I have that "recovery" type cap. That would just mean that the seal sits higher than the outlet for that little pipe yeah?

Ive decided to use the factory bracket that used to hold the washer motor tank. I'll mount it between the grill and the radiator ;)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:39 pm 
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i have the "older" type radiator. and had the standard radiator cap on it that shoots hot coolant out, but doesnt suck it back in.

so i bought a recovery type radiator cap from sprints. cost me $7 i think.
works a charm :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:43 pm 
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Beaudy :P

If I dont have the right cap, will get one quick smart.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 5:00 pm 
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sprints near my place have had a sale since the new year of 25% and i think they're gonna continue to for AGES, coz its hard to see them from the road.

anything i need i get from there.

do not ask me why i said that, i just did. :D


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 5:29 pm 
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k, I won't ask :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 7:52 am 
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Jill a recovery cap has two seals in it. One looks like the normal seal which is at the bottom of the spring and seals the bottom of the radiator neck and the other is in the top of the cap and seals the top of the radiator neck.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 8:24 am 
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:?
A bit of clarification needed here. The Morris 1100 system used a plain blanking cap on the radiator as the whole system including the expansion tank was pressurised. Hence the placement of the normal type radiator cap on the expansion tank. More modern systems do not pressurise the expansion tank and use a radiator cap with an additional seal which seals the neck of the radiator as well as the normal pressure/vacuum seal. It doesn't pressurise the expansion tank which is a good idea as there is less pipework/tubing etc to leak under pressure. It doesn't matter where the expansion tank is mounted as long as the tube entering the expansion tank is below the water level in the tank. If the end of the tube is above the water level it can't suck water back into the radiator.

Hope this helps
RonR


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