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PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 9:56 pm 
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I'll pull the motor out of mine next week, after I swap Barney's 1293 in.

Should have mine going again by the end of month. The biggie, I'll start to build next month. Dunno yet whether to leave at 1360, or stroke it to 1405. Depends what rods I can find, either 1275A+, or S ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 10:11 pm 
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998cc
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Im thinking about ordering my hypatecs......

Just got to decide whether or not to go 1293 or 1310 :P

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 5:57 am 
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1310... :wink:
You can still bore it to 1330, 1360 or 1380, later..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 7:48 am 
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by the sounds of things, it looks like my car might suddenly start working for no reason..:)

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 Post subject: Pist-an Broke
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 7:59 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
MiniK wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
If it helps, mine is now dead too after Wakefield Pk- broken #4 Mahle forged piston... :cry:
So `tis the season for fixing A series. :lol:


Bugger! :lol:

What pistons are going back in then Kev?

I've got a line on some more 1310 Mahle flat top pistons I could drop in, as the bores are still perfect (would just need a quick hone).
This big port head I'm using needs flat top pistons as its chambers are 28cc.

But, I'm then going to start building the 1360/1405 auto block, it will sit nicely on my 4 synchro SCCR box with a 3.76 diff. :P


Doc ....mind telling us what damage the Mahle sustained?? Did the crown part company??? and was the coolant dribble connected or seperate (nosey bastard ain't I :lol: ). If you'd rather not say....jusy call it an "electrical fault" :shock: :lol:

and OBTW....no one is forcing you to put the 28cc head on Barney :wink: there might be other ways to go....BTW I vote for 1310 (purely out of tradition!)

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 8:16 am 
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Mick,
I don't have the pistons out yet, but the crown etc is still attached- these pistons are tuff!
Appears like the skirt is cracked and collapsed on back side only, or fallen off. Won't know until I pull it out next week.
It was still firing on 4 cylinders all the way home.

Coolant dribble was just the head a bit loose before I tightened it- the BK450 gasket was perfect when I took it out. No it's not a crap `copper' one!

No, Barney already has his nice 19.5cc stage 2 head, with the new rimflo valves and unleaded seats, & Corolla rockers.. :wink: and crap 21251 pistons.. :lol:

Today is Barney day- I'm about to go pull the exhaust etc off and start removing the 1098.. 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 9:18 am 
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Chris

I have lost your Ph number - just PM me i'm on the net all the time.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 10:40 am 
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998cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
1310... :wink:
You can still bore it to 1330, 1360 or 1380, later..


I was thinking you would say that........... :P

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:46 pm 
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998cc
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Waiting Waiting Waiting.

Car is just siting here with everything disconnected. Damn I wish I had an engine crane I could do it myself. Might just hire one tomorrow.

I really had a good look at calling over a couple of neighbours to just lift the thing out by hand.

Here is a question.

last time we had the motor out, the biggest pain in the arse of a job was geeting the bolts back into through the engine mounts and through the subframe to screw the nut on.. It's OK when the car is on a hoist and you have all the room in the world, a light and a pair of long nose pliers, but this time I am flat on my back with my nose inches from the underside of the car. Surely there is a better way. Has anyoen ever toyed with the idea of captive nut on the inside of the engine mount so you can just sit engine in and screw bolts in from outside?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:49 pm 
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I've tack welded the nuts into my mounts for 30 years! :lol:
Yes you can buy new mounts with captive nuts already in, but I find they are too bloody thick. `Made in India/China/Bangladesh/wherever'... :evil:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Stands
PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:07 pm 
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ozmotorsport wrote:
Waiting Waiting Waiting.

Car is just siting here with everything disconnected. Damn I wish I had an engine crane I could do it myself. Might just hire one tomorrow.

I really had a good look at calling over a couple of neighbours to just lift the thing out by hand.

Here is a question.

last time we had the motor out, the biggest pain in the arse of a job was geeting the bolts back into through the engine mounts and through the subframe to screw the nut on.. It's OK when the car is on a hoist and you have all the room in the world, a light and a pair of long nose pliers, but this time I am flat on my back with my nose inches from the underside of the car. Surely there is a better way. Has anyoen ever toyed with the idea of captive nut on the inside of the engine mount so you can just sit engine in and screw bolts in from outside?


well if you start with the Mini on jack stands then you get some clearance underneath......

If you have one of those little torches on a stick (like a Rally Navigators only much smaller) that can be a big help to see if the holes are lined up before you start trying to screw bolts or to locate the studs through the the suspension towers...

Does your garage have a descent I Beam?? with two 4X4 posts either side of the Mini you should be able to sling a chain block off something like that....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:13 pm 
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Blu Tac on a long spanner, I have done it so many times now i think i could do it in my sleep. Just make sure the holes line up by using a screw driver to pull it into place. Patience. Of course welding them on is the best bet, but in my case i don't have a welder so you just live with it.

Cheers

Aaron

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:46 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I've tack welded the nuts into my mounts for 30 years! :lol:
Yes you can buy new mounts with captive nuts already in, but I find they are too bloody thick. `Made in India/China/Bangladesh/wherever'... :evil:


me too, but not for 30 years.... just 4 or 5 - I also try to find pointy nosed bolts, makes it easier to get them started. the 1100S I wrecked actually had about 1/4" on the nose of the engine mount bolts with no thread, and a smaller diameter (about 1/4" instead of 5/16") which I reckon is pretty neat.

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 Post subject: Carefully....
PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:26 am 
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aaron wrote:
Blu Tac on a long spanner, I have done it so many times now i think i could do it in my sleep. Just make sure the holes line up by using a screw driver to pull it into place. Patience. Of course welding them on is the best bet, but in my case i don't have a welder so you just live with it.

Cheers

Aaron


Careful with that screwdriver...you have a lot of weight and tiny threads ...easily damaged :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 9:04 am 
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Dean ("Da Man" ) Baracade, drove probably an hour plus each way yesterday on a Saturday morning just to help me pull this motor out - a big thanks to him.

Think I have made a decission - got a bit of an idea and it does not involve putting this engine back in this car - but I will keep you posted.

:D :shock: :?: :idea:

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