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 Post subject: Taking my head off...
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 10:02 pm 
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Milatsmadmini
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Location: the inner west of sydeney!
the moke... im not really wanting to spend thousands of dollars actually no more than say $200.... wat can i do to make it run smoother and perform better? can i polish it myself? should i get a little bit shaved off?...

confused... :?

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 Post subject: Head question
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 10:56 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: werribee vic
I may not be an expert but I,ll start the replies. I dont know what head you have, but lets say you have a 12g202, you take it to a head reconditioner and have it hot dipped, surfaced ( to make sure its flat ) and have the combustion chambers polished , you keep the standard springs and rocker assembly, you get new standard valves with new seats cut, replace valve guides, valve spring caps, valve stem seals, valve collets, new head gasket kit and spark plugs, just doing that you have spent about $375.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:00 pm 
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Milatsmadmini
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Location: the inner west of sydeney!
thanks for the reply!

yeh its a 202... probly shoulda mentioned that lol, is it possible to do any of that myself? (depends how adventurous i feel i spose... lol)

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“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:05 pm 
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This space for rent
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If you're adventurous and/or brave you can do a lot of that yourself -- polishing is child's play, porting less so but if you're careful with a grinder not rocket surgery.

With basic workshop tools you can replace your valve guides, stem seals, and if your valves & seats are in good nick lap grind them into their seats pretty easily.

Depending on the state its in and your budget, you can get away without needing to send it off at all. Or you can blow $500 and get all of the above, crack testing, skimming, etc. Up to you ;)

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 Post subject: one step at a time
PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:35 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: werribee vic
I think your best bet is to get another 12g202 in good condition and work on that, then your not stuck with a car you cant use. The process I explained before was to recondition as standard , no performance modifications. With a limited budget its best to concentrate on the things that are accessible, recondition the SU ( new standard jet, new standard needle), recondition the distributor and advance the timing, new spark plugs ( check the gaps), new coil and heavy duty leads, change the oil and filter and add Slick50 ( teflon additive), flush the radiator and refill with water and rust inhibitor only, replace the fuel filter, replace the air filter. Basic and regular maintenance will beat a one off performance modification 9 times out 10, Why? because your car is reliable.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:57 am 
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1360cc
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It's actually alot of work and you may not get any power increase from just polishing...

For $200 why don't you try installing some second hand extractors and 1 3/4inch exhaust?

I bought my maniflows off some dude interstate for $50 (I have them in my car right now) installed myself and got a 2" straight through exhaust for about $120, clamps, mounts, you might just get it in under $250? Be careful as the stock intake may not fit over some extractors.

I am willing to bet this will be better off for $200.

A more free flowing intake manifold might do you some good too?

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 Post subject: Re: one step at a time
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 10:14 am 
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74snail wrote:
...change the oil and filter and add Slick50 ( teflon additive) ...


Not sure if oil friction modification additives are advisable. This oil is also used in the gearbox/ diff remember?

AFAIK.

:wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:44 pm 
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I think that Slick 50 may be made from snake oil. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:30 pm 
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Milatsmadmini
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hmmmm.... ive got the 1 3/4 exhaust already and i was going to put some lcb's and change the carb to a 1.5su... maybe he just needs a good clean?

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“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:49 pm 
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If I had $200 on what I think You Have Buy a 1.5 Carb and Good Manfold & LCB Perry's are good and what I use, and normal not to expesive.
Get the carb kitted and Gr's HT Leads
Dyno Tunes by Greg from Mini Classic...it may pop over $200 but you will be happy with the result

Replace Oil Filter, Oil "KMX Kmart" and Fuel filter and you will also need a good Bing Air Cleaner also :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:56 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Plumpton, NSW
Morris 1100 wrote:
I think that Slick 50 may be made from snake oil. :mrgreen:


Better not tell Peter McLeod :D - wasn't he in the slick 50 Rx7?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 9:04 pm 
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I rebuilt a 1275 motor and Mk2S box years ago that the PO (a certain sportscar manufacturer) ran out of oilz, and kept driving. "She'll be right, it's being protected by Bardahl/snake oil/slick 50/whatever".
Noooooooo, it wasn't. :shock: :evil:
The standard size crank needed a -.020" grind all over to clean up, and the whole gearset was knackered. I tossed it all, mainshaft included.
Never mind the pistons.. :!:

Good 20W/50 oilz is all you need... :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 10:12 pm 
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Milatsmadmini
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Location: the inner west of sydeney!
hmmmmm..... ok.... im liking the way Gaf is saying.... so the whole take off head for a normal rebuild isnt really worth it...ill just clean it up and give it a nice polish or sand?(what do i use..?) chuck on the nice intake ive got, the 1.5 and the LCB's...

now... back to the needle... lol GX?

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson


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 Post subject: I stand corrected
PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 12:38 am 
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1275cc
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Location: werribee vic
I now stand corrected in regards to Slick50, I just read an article explaining about the the teflon coating the bearings at high engine temperatures and doing damage, and as mini motors are an all in unit I wont be using it. As far as the needle for a 1 1/2 SU Russell Turner from MinisRus told me to use an ADC needle which is what I now have, $22 from Mini Spares in Sydney.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 7:08 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Karcraft sells new SU needles for ~$14. :wink:

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