P-plater and can't say sorry

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Just like the PM

OI !!!!!

Easy... This p plater is resposible and i only ever race people to the other side of the traffic lights

but really, its not p platers it just people who have no understanding in car control and too much bloody money! Every day I almost get cleaned up by a little old lady or a 4WD owner, but its the p platers that are the problem... hmmm
If driver education is low in all areas, of course the youth are going to crash alot, but these days everybody does.

I work in spare parts and i get at least 20 people a day coming in with car park drive bys.... whos teaching these people how to drive and the laws involved in leaving an accident???

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Time to try drifting,

Stop that NOW!!!!

We don't want another one of 'those' threads

so from the vibe im getting is, straight cut gears = keep to the 1380 racers?

and earmuffs coz they're so freaking loud.

I'm not having a go at Anyone (not that I have been accused) I just think that sort of money can be better spent in other areas of your car. To me straight cut gears on a road car (or even a race mini that's not a full on prefessional mega bux job) are overkill for the $$$$

When you are cruising along in a car with SC gears the power is not always going trough the gears, like when you are coasting, and that's when they make a HEAP of noise.

Yeah.

Whats a (performance) mod for under the 600 mark then?

600 dollars worth of headwork would be a good thing, of corse you should have a decent manifold and exhaust to make the most of it.

Cheers

Aaron

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Ive got a set of Perry extractors... 3-1
The inlet manifold hasnt been modified at all... just a stockie 1.5 i think.
I have a JUN BL exhaust, so no worries there

What does head work cost? Valves enlarged, valves and guides to suit, etc.
THen a new ringset would be advisable yes? Or not?

Simon....
You are maybe thinking of a dog box- they crunch, but even they have all the gears in constant mesh- the gears themselves don't slide into mesh.

The gears in any 4 synchro Mini box are in constant mesh, regardless of whether S/C or helical. And the synchro setup and selectors etc is the same in both.
Yeah they whine a bit, but most of the racket is the S/C primary gears which the racers all use.
1st gear in a 4 synchro Mini box is already S/C, and it's not real noisy is it..

re. driving a SCCR box on the street- 1st gear is taller so it's a bit harder to get away fast, unless you drop the diff ratio. And then it'll scream its nuts off on the freeway..
My next motor (1360cc+) will have one, and a 3.76 diff. Just for fun..

But use a dog box on the street? Forget it...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've got a straight cut close ratio box, it's bolted too my 1427 stroker motor, its your for the right money.

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

The main reason SC gears are used is because of the better, closer, gear ratios available. Properly set up, they do not crunch. As Kev says, it is the drop gears that generate most of the noise. For the road, Mk 2 S gears are probably the best you can get, don't need SC except for the pose value. Steve

I've got a lot to learn about gearboxes.... gotta have a go at rebuilding one, but both of mine are perfect so I'm not gonna screw with 'em just yet

so what is it that makes straight cut gears stronger? what I was trying to describe was that the teeth are in contact all the way across with s/c, but with helical the contact moves from one side of the tooth to the other as they rotate - did I get that wrong?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

In theory, SC gears are not stronger, size for size. There are shock loads as the power is transferred from tooth to tooth, and they are not as smooth as helicals, which have several teeth in mesh at once..
However, the teeth in a SCCR box are generally slightly bigger form than a Mini's helicals.

Also, due to the short production runs required, they are manufactured on equipment that is crap compared to that used by industry to produce helicals. So, they wear faster. Some gearsets are noisier than others.

Benefit for racing (apart from close ratios) is there is no end thrust generated in the bearings as there is with helicals.
This end thrust=friction=loss of power. How many gee gees are saved, I have NFI.


BTW back in the mists of time,(3 synchro boxes) there were close ratio helicals available. But these have been NLA for yonks.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.